“Of all the mountain ranges I have climbed, I like the Sierra Nevada the best,” wrote John Muir, naturalist and founder of the Sierra Club. The fact that the John Muir Trail – which offers some of the most scenic vistas in the nation – bears his name is reason enough to follow his footsteps on this magnificent and challenging route.

The John Muir Trail begins in Yosemite National Park and travels 210 miles along the High Sierra mountain range through the Ansel Adams Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Sequoia National Park, and King’s Canyon National Park, culminating at the highest peak in the continental United States – Mount Whitney. The route climbs nearly 46,000 feet of elevation and crosses six high-elevation mountain passes, with most people taking around three weeks to complete.

Planning your thru-hike on the JMT can be daunting – on top of the difficulty of procuring one of the coveted permits. In this guide, we break down every detail you’ll need to begin preparing for what will surely be the adventure of a lifetime. We’ve got you covered – from gear to resupplies and transportation logistics to maps and itineraries.

Quick Facts

• Distance: 210.4 (official length ending at Whitney summit) / 221 total miles (end-to-end length with the summit of Whitney and descent to Whitney Portal)
• Days Needed: 18-21 days (seriously fit and experienced hikers may take less time, but you really need to know your limits – this is a very tough trail)
• Peak Elevation: 14,505 ft. – summit of Mount Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous U.S.
• Low Elevation: 4,000 ft. – the northern terminus at Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley
• Elevation Gain/Loss: 46,000 ft./38,000 ft. (north to south)
• Best Time: July-early October (varies year to year, depending on snowpack and winter storms)
• Permits: Required and competitive (see below)
• Difficulty: Difficult-strenuous

Highlights

• Summiting the highest point in the United States
• Unparalleled views of endless peaks and lakes
• Some of the best backcountry campsites in the country
• Gorgeous sunrises and sunsets
• Mind-blowing stargazing
• If hiking southbound, elevation progressively increases, providing good altitude training for the increasing difficulty of passes
• Social and friendly trail community
• Generally mild, sunny climate
• Feeling amazingly capable and confident at the end of the journey
• Great, yet frigidly cold, swimming opportunities (always follow LNT guidelines)

Lowlights

• Competitive Permits – 97% of all JMT thru-hike permit applications are denied
• Strenuous ascents and descents over many mountain passes
• Mosquitos and black flies can be vicious at times
• Altitude sickness until you acclimate for some (more common with northbounders)
• Early season rushing rivers can mean sketchy, sometimes dangerous fording
• Early season snow travel can be dangerous and exhausting
• Fires are prohibited in most places along the JMT
• The descent from Mt. Whitney to Whitney Portal is brutal

Best Time to Hike

Although it’s possible for those equipped for snow travel to hike the John Muir Trail as early as mid-June, the best time is generally late July through early October. This is highly variable year-to-year and really depends on the season’s snowfall.

There are pros and cons to hiking in each month. July can offer very pleasant weather, but raging rivers can be potentially dangerous to ford. August often has near-perfect weather, but mosquitos and flies can be at their worst. By mid-September, the days are shorter, the nights get progressively colder, and you’ll have to navigate the possibility of early snowfall in the High Sierra. Also, planning late-season resupply can be complicated due to closed resupply depots along the route (they usually start closing in late September to mid-October).

How Long Does It Take?

Difficulty

The John Muir Trail is well-maintained, well-signed, and easy to follow, so navigation is rarely an issue. That said, we always hike with a good topographical map and compass. The main difficulty of the JMT is the terrain and length of the trail. Over the course of your trip you’ll ascend and descend 11 mountain passes, many of them over 12,000 feet.

Altitude sickness can bother some hikers along the JMT, but it’s not a common complaint. The best way to minimize altitude issues is to hike the trail from north to south (from the Yosemite Valley to Mt. Whitney). You’ll naturally acclimatize and get stronger as you climb progressively higher passes on your way to Mt. Whitney. One of the disadvantages of going south to north (Mt. Whitney to Yosemite Valley) is the significant and quick altitude gain from the Whitney Portal. You’ll still have a big climb if you start from the Yosemite Valley (hiking north to south), but you won’t go nearly as high in elevation.

Depending on the season, fording rivers can be challenging, if not dangerous. We recommend brushing up on how to safely ford backcountry rivers before setting off on your trip, regardless of when you begin your hike.

Finally, snowfields can persist long into the summer months on the JMT, depending on the winter season’s snowpack. Sadly, backpacking across snowfields and snow bridges on the JMT has resulted in fatal falls, even for experienced hikers. If you are hiking while snow is still underfoot, try to time your snow travel for when the snowpack is not hard ice and not so warm that you are post-holing (best is usually mid to late morning, later if winds keep the surface temperature down).

We have a great list of traction devices for more sure-footed snow travel.

Permits

You must secure a permit to start your JMT thru-hike in Yosemite National Park.

Permits have a strict quota. A lottery system is in place to reduce environmental impact and give non-JMT hikers a fair shot at accessing these trails. As a result, the NPS is doing an advance lottery to limit the number of hikers who can exit the Yosemite Wilderness over Donohue Pass to just 45 people a day. More than 97% of permit applications are denied, so you’ll need flexibility, patience, and persistence if you’re hoping to score a permit.

Securing permits to recreate in national parks can be a logistical jungle gym. We’ve spent hours navigating Yosemite National Park Service’s permit systems. While it may seem clunky, they are doing their best to make access to the outdoors fair for everyone without degrading the environment.

Permitting systems change every year, so keep checking back on recreation.gov to stay up-to-date on the upcoming season’s system. See Yosemite’s wilderness permit reservation page for a great run-down of the current system.

When To Apply

Pre-Season Advance Weekly Lottery: If you’re applying for a permit that begins in Yosemite and ends at Whitney Portal, you can enter a lottery to win one of Yosemite National Park’s wilderness permit reservations available 24 weeks to three days in advance of your entry date(November 12- May 6). For example, if you wanted to start hiking on Thursday, August 7, 2025, then your window to apply would be between Sunday, February 16, at 12:01 AM PDT through Saturday, February 22, at 11:59 PM PDT. You can apply once a week if you are flexible on your start date and can select up to 8 preferred itineraries to up your chances of securing a permit.

The National Parks Service has a helpful chart that provides entry dates and the associated times to apply. It also tells you when you will be notified and the deadline to accept your reservation if you win. Any unclaimed reservations for each week will be released. (This is a mad dash, first-come, first-serve the following Friday at 9:00 AM PDT).

Week-Ahead Reservations: So that is how it works for 60% of the reservations available. The remaining 40% of reservations become available online seven days in advance (up to three days in advance) at 7 AM PDT. These entry points fill insanely fast, so be signed in and keep refreshing the page until they become available promptly at 7 AM PDT, 7 days in advance of your desired start date.

We recommend setting alarms, having several alternative dates, marking your calendars, and practicing navigating recreation.gov before it is time to apply. This will increase your chances of landing a permit.

How to Apply

To apply for a JMT permit, you will need an account on recreation.gov. You’ll also need to know your preferred start dates, beginning trailhead, where you’ll camp your first night, your trip leader, group size, end date, ending trailhead, and whether you want to hike Half Dome. Below, we’ll walk through the different components of the online application.

• Beginning Trailhead – The two trailheads that can be used to access the JMT from Yosemite are Happy Isles and Lyell Canyon (see below for more detailed descriptions of trailheads). On your application, you’ll list each trailhead in order of priority, along with the location of your first night’s camp. Make sure to select the trail entry that says “Donohue Pass-eligible” so you can exit the park and continue south on the JMT.
• Exit Trailhead – If you are completing the classic JMT route from Yosemite, you’ll choose Whitney Portal as your exit trailhead.
• Dates – You’ll be required to list your first and last desired start date (21-day range maximum). Having a flexible start date can greatly increase your chance of getting a permit. You’ll also have to list your trip length – we recommend overestimating the length of time it will take by a day or two. You can finish the trail early, but you can’t be on the trail past your exit date.
• Group Size – You will identify the number of people in your group. The maximum group size is 15, though your chances of getting a permit decrease drastically the larger your group size.
• Half Dome Permits – As part of their JMT hike, many people choose to take a side trip to the summit of Half Dome in Yosemite. If you haven’t done this, it is absolutely worth it and a bucket-lister itself. The vistas are some of the best in the valley. As part of your JMT application, you’ll be asked if you want to apply for Half Dome permits as well. For more information on this hike, check out our article, Complete Guide to Hiking Half Dome.
• Trip Leader – The last part of the application concerns trip leader information, which is pretty straightforward. The trip leader must pick up your permit the day before your entry date or between 8-11 AM on the start day.

Walk-Up Permits

If you can’t secure a permit through the different routes above, there’s the slightest chance of a walk-up permit for any unreserved permit or no-show JMT thru-hikers. Success is far from guaranteed, but any permits not picked up by 11 AM on their entry date will be available for walk-ups.

You will have to secure an entrance reservation or arrive after peak hours to get into the park in order to get in line at a permit station. We recommend getting there early (like bringing a sleeping bag to the line early), being friendly, and talking to the rangers to have the best chance. If it works out, you’ll have to start hiking that day because backpacker campground availability is limited.

Beginning Trailhead Options

Southbound Hikers

The classic John Muir Trail route begins in Yosemite at the Happy Isles trailhead and travels to the summit of Mt. Whitney near the Whitney Portal trailhead in Inyo National Forest. This is the most in-demand and subsequently congested starting point. When filling out your permit application, you’ll have to determine your desired beginning trailhead. The JMT can only be directly accessed from the following trailheads out of Yosemite:

• Happy Isles -This is the official start and most sought-after beginning trailhead. The first couple of days, you’ll have a big climb out of Yosemite Valley, but you’ll also get to see some classic Yosemite landmarks (Nevada and Vernal Falls) and have the opportunity to summit Half Dome (remember to check the box on your application for separate Half Dome permits). Of the 45 wilderness permits issued a day for exiting the Yosemite National Park via Donohue Pass, 15 are available for the Happy Isles to Past LYV trailhead. Make sure you select: Happy Isles->Past LYV (Donohue Pass Eligible) on your permit applications
  
• Lyell Canyon (Tuolumne Meadows) – Maybe you have already visited Yosemite and all the sights in the valley. If so, this may be a good option for you as the trailhead begins in Tuolumne Meadows, which is a little quieter than Yosemite Valley. Your first day of hiking will be relatively flat as you make your way to Upper Lyell Canyon. There are camping restrictions for the first 4 miles after Tuolumne Meadows, so you’ll need to plan for this on your first day. Yosemite National Park only issues wilderness permits valid for exiting Yosemite via the John Muir Trail over Donohue Pass for up to 45 people per day. Of the 45 permits issued a day for JMT hikers exiting the park via Donohue Pass, 30 are available for using the Lyell Canyon trailhead. Make sure you select: Lyell Canyon (Donohue Pass Eligible) on your permit application.

Ending Trailhead – For southbound trekkers, the classic end of the trail is Whitney Portal, which is 10.6 miles from the summit of Mt. Whitney. Don’t forget to grab a burger and beer at Whitney Portal to celebrate!

How to Apply for Northbound Permits

Just like southbound permits, permits originating from Whitney Portal are issued via lottery on recreation.gov. All permit applications are submitted in the same timeframe, and all applications are processed through the same lottery after that timeframe.

For northbound trips, submit your application to the lottery from February 1 to March 1. Around March 15, the lottery results will be announced online at recreation.gov via your profile. If there are any remaining permits (for any dates), they become available online on April 22 at 7 AM PDT. You must accept or confirm your approved permit by April 21, or you lose it.

If you have any questions, call the Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permit office at (760) 873-2483.

Transportation to Trailheads

If you’re hiking the JMT in the peak months of July, August, and early September, getting to and from trailheads is relatively easy. Outside of the peak summer season, transportation options can be more limited and costly. Below we’ll outline everything you need to know to get to and from your trailheads.

Airports

If you’re arriving by plane for your JMT hike, there’s a good system of transportation in place to get you from the airport to your starting trailhead. Below are the most common airports people fly into.

• Mammoth Lakes Airport – The closest and most convenient airport to the John Muir Trail. If you’re flying into Mammoth, it’s easy and affordable to use YARTS to get to Yosemite Valley to begin your hike
• Fresno or Merced Airports – Both of these airports are convenient as they’re connected to the Yosemite Valley via YARTS
• Reno Nevada Airport – Flying into the Reno Airport is often the cheapest route, though your transportation options after that are a bit more involved. After you land, you can catch the Eastern Sierra Transit to Lee Vining, Mammoth Lakes, or Lone Pine, CA. From Lee Vining or Mammoth Lakes, transfer to YARTS to make a connection to Yosemite Valley

By Car

Long-term parking is available at both ends of the John Muir Trail at either Whitney Portal or the overnight lots near Curry Village and Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite. In our opinion, the easiest option is to drive yourself to where you plan to exit the trail and take public transportation to your beginning trailhead. For example, you can park a car at the Whitney Portal trailhead and take public transportation or a shuttle to Yosemite Valley (more on that below).

The concept of “hiking back to your car” rather than parking where you start is generally the most convenient option because your beginning date is set, and you can arrange transportation accordingly. Parking your car where you start can be logistically more complicated because it’s difficult to estimate your exact exit date and public transportation reservations can fill up quickly in peak season. It’s not impossible – it’ll just require more flexibility and patience.

If you want to enter Yosemite National Park before your entry date, you will need to secure an entrance reservation. Booking a campground, a different wilderness permit, or a vehicle reservation will grant you entry to the park.

Public Transport Options

For those needing transportation, there’s a remarkably effective public transit system in place to make it convenient and affordable for JMT hikers to get to and from trailheads. The two services you’ll likely use are the Eastern Sierra Transit (EST) and Yosemite Area Regional Transit (YARTS). You do not need to make a vehicle reservation if entering Yosemite via public transportation.

The Eastern Sierra Transit (map above) offers transportation between Reno, Mammoth Lakes, Lone Pine, and other JMT trailhead communities. If you parked a car at Whitney Portal, you’ll still need to get to Lone Pine (about a 20-minute drive) to catch the EST bus. You can either press your luck and hitchhike (not the best idea if you’re short on time) or arrange a ride. A reliable option is East Side Sierra Shuttle, which offers rides from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine for $65 for the 1st person and $20 for each additional person.

After you get to Lone Pine, your best option is to take the YARTS from Lone Pine to Mammoth Lakes. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season.

Once you arrive in Mammoth Lakes, you’ll transfer to the YARTS green line (see map below), which will take you right into Yosemite Valley. Additionally, if you arrive by air, the YARTS system is a great option because it connects to airports in Mammoth Lakes, Fresno, and Merced. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season.

By Train

If you’re looking for a relaxing, traffic-free, and beautiful way to get to Yosemite, you can travel by Amtrak from the San Francisco, Oakland, or Sacramento area. You’ll take the train to Merced, CA where you’ll transfer to YARTS, which takes you directly into Yosemite Valley.

Private Shuttle Options

A variety of private shuttle companies, like East Side Sierra Shuttle, can be reserved and arranged for pickups and drop-offs for common JMT access points on the east side. Shuttles like this are generally the most costly options, but they’re also the most direct and expedient way to get around. If you’re hiking very early or very late in the season, a private shuttle may be your only option.

Planning Your Itinerary

So you scored your JMT permit, congrats! Let the real planning begin.

Your next step will be to determine your itinerary. Most people take about three weeks to complete the JMT, with many averaging around 10-12 miles a day. That said, very fit and experienced hikers may cover 15-17 miles a day. Hiking in the Sierras is no joke, so we recommend overestimating your time on the trail. You can always get off the trail early, but you cannot be on the trail after your exit date. Your plan should take into consideration your ability, personal preferences, hiking style, and pre-trip training.

We also recommend building a few zero days (no hiking) into your itinerary. Your body will thank you later. It’s often rumbled on the trail that the person who takes the longest is the winner. You were able to snag a permit, so why rush through it?

A Sample JMT Itinerary

Below is a sample itinerary for those looking to complete the trail in 22 days. Many people begin the hike with lower mileage while they gain their “trail legs”, increasing strength and stamina along the way. Desired daily mileage, physical fitness, and personal preference will dictate your actual itinerary, but you can use this as a point of reference.

• Day 1 – Happy Isles to Sunrise Creek 7.8 miles
• Day 2 – Lower Cathedral Lake 9.7 miles
• Day 3 – Tuolumne Meadow 7.1 miles
• Day 4 – Tarn Below Donahue Pass 10.9 miles
• Day 5 – Garnet Lake 11.1 miles
• Day 6 – Red’s Meadow 12.4 miles
• Day 7 – Red’s Meadow 0 (overnight)
• Day 8 – Lake Virginia 16.3 miles
• Day 9 – Just Past Bridge 12.6 miles
• Day 10 – Marie Lake 11.5 miles
• Day 11 – Muir Trail Ranch 7.5 miles
• Day 12 – Muir Trail Ranch 0 (camp for the night)
• Day 13 – Near Ranger Station in McClure Meadow 11.8
• Day 14 – Medium Lake 13.1 miles
• Day 15 – Deer Meadow 12.2 miles
• Day 16 – Taboose Pass Junction 15.3 miles
• Day 17 – Middle Rae Lake 16 miles
• Day 18 – Near Glenn Pass (Center Basin Creek) 10 miles
• Day 19 – Near Forester Pass (Wright Creek) 12.8 miles
• Day 20 – Guitar Lake 7.3 Miles
• Day 21 – Whitney Zone (Outpost Camp) 9.8 miles
• Day 22 – Whitney Portal 3.8 miles

What Food Should I Pack?

Hiking the JMT is hard, calorie-gobbling work. You’ll need a ton of calories to sustain your energy and health.

That said, food is also an area where people tend to overpack and weigh themselves down. It’s critically important that each item you pack be calorically dense and lightweight. You’ll be resupplying several times along the route (more on that below), but you’ll still be carrying up to five or six days of food in each stretch, so create your food plan thoughtfully.

It’s important to consider not only weight but also the bulk of your food on your JMT hike. You’ll have to fit all of your food into a bear canister, so you’ll want to avoid food that’s too voluminous, like bagels or bags of chips. We recommend repackaging your food into lightweight zip-loc bags to cut down on bulk.

You’ll need to plan for one breakfast, one lunch, one dinner, and snacks for each day on the trail. The best way to get organized with your food is to take over a room and make a pile for each day’s food. You can then easily see if you have enough calories in each day and begin packing your resupply buckets/boxes.

We suggest checking out our Lightweight Backpacking Food Guide as you prepare your backpacking food. Lightweight meal options such as freeze-dried meals, mashed potatoes, couscous, and other easily rehydrated foods are common on the trail. We recommend packing calorically dense foods such as chocolate, olive oil, peanut butter, and nuts to supplement your meals. Remember, variety is key in your food plan – you don’t want to be four days into your hike and regret your resupply choices.

Resupply Points

Because you’ll be on the John Muir Trail for 2-3 weeks, you won’t be able to carry all your food in your pack. You’ll need to stop and resupply several times along the trail; most people resupply 3-4 times.

Generally speaking, you resupply by mailing boxes or 5-gallon buckets ahead of time to either a post office or a predetermined store/hotel. Hiring a resupply service, buying products at small stores (such as Red’s Meadows), or getting a ride into a nearby town are also common options. If your resupply plan involves mailing packages, you need to ship them at least three weeks ahead of your intended pickup date. Some of these resupply points are horse-packing your buckets, so please read their information pages thoroughly. Some of these locations will have “hiker boxes,” places where thru-hikers donate their unopened extra food supplies that they don’t want to carry. It isn’t something to depend on, but we met someone who didn’t send their resupply early enough and arrived before their resupply was delivered, and this was a lifesaver.

We’ve outlined the most common resupply points for southbound hikers beginning their hike from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley. If you’re a northbound hiker, these points still apply, just in reverse order.

Tuolumne Meadows Store (mile 24)

The first resupply point for many southbounders who begin their hike in Yosemite Valley is at the well-stocked Tuolumne Meadows Store. It’s set up to serve JMT travelers and is open once the first hikers hit the trail. While many people pick up a pre-sent package here, grab a meal, or buy resupply food from the store, there is another option as well. If your transportation logistics allow and you’re parking a car at the terminus and traveling northbound to begin your hike, you can drop a sealed and labeled resupply box off in the hiker’s box near the Ranger’s Station or at the TM Store (recommended).

Though a resupply at mile 24 may seem silly, the climb out of the Yosemite Valley is intense, especially if you opt to climb Half Dome. Every pound off your back matters. You’ll be passing through Tuolumne Meadows anyway, so if you can logistically swing it, why not?

If you’re hiking early or late in the season, we recommend calling the store (209-372-8428) to check hours and options. The Tuolumne Meadows Post Office is located in the same building as the store and grill. It can be reached at 209-372-8236. They’ll hold your package for no charge. If you’re sending a resupply package, mail packages to:

• Your Name c/o General Delivery/Tuolumne Meadows/Yosemite National Park, CA 95389/Arriving By: ETA

Red’s Meadow Resort (mile 60)

Only 1/4 mile off the JMT, the Red’s Meadow Resort is a logical place to stop for your second resupply. You have the option of mailing a package here for a small fee, or there’s also a small store with limited food options, paid showers, lodging, a backpacker’s campground, and the Mule House Cafe, which serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If you’re hiking early or late in the season, we recommend calling them (760-934-2345) to check availability. If you’re sending a resupply, mail packages to:

• Your Name c/o Red’s Meadow Resort/PO Box 365/Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546/Arriving By: ETA

Mammoth Lakes (mile 60)

Another option at Red’s Meadow is to take a short bus ride into the city of Mammoth Lakes to resupply. Most people choose to do this if they’ve planned to take a zero day (a day off hiking) at this point in their trip. A bus runs regularly from Red’s Meadow Resort to Mammoth Lakes during peak season, where you can shop at full-blown supermarkets, dine at a variety of restaurants, take a night off in a hotel, or replenish gear at the shops. There’s also a post office in town that will hold your shipped package for free, though most people choose to resupply at a supermarket in town. If you plan on sending a resupply package to the Mammoth Lakes Post Office, mail the package here:

• Your Name c/o General Delivery/Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546

Vermillion Valley Resort (mile 88)

Though a slight detour off the trail, Vermillion Valley Resort (affectionately known as VVR on the trail) was one of our favorite resupply spots along the way. They’re incredibly hiker-friendly and offer thru-hikers a free beer upon arrival. Many people who are planning on resupplying at Muir Trail Ranch forgo this stop because of the off-trail mileage and inconvenience.

VVR is located at the west end of Lake Edison. To get to VVR, you’ll first need to hike the 1.5 mile detour from the JMT to get to the boat launch area on the east side of the lake. Here you have a choice to either take a boat shuttle for a small fee (recommended) or hike the 4.5 miles to VVR. A variety of lodging options, showers, restrooms, and laundry are available. They have a full-service restaurant with great food. The resort holds boxes for a fee and allows thru-hikers to camp free in a small campground outside the restaurant. You can reach VVR at 559-259-4000 or visit their website for full resupply directions. If you’re planning on mailing a resupply package to VVR, don’t use the United States Postal Service (USPS) – it will be returned. VVR is serious when it says to use UPS only. Ship UPS package to:

• Your Name/Vermillion Valley Resort c/o Rancheria Garage/62311 Huntington Lake, CA 93634

*According to VVR, this address IS correct; however, the UPS will say that it is not. Please have the UPS clerk override the system with this address. It WILL get delivered to this address.

Muir Trail Ranch (mile 110)

Located near the halfway point – 110 miles from Happy Isles – and only two miles off the trail, Muir Trail Ranch will hold mailed resupply packages for a fee. The Ranch also has a small sundry shop (matches, lighters, batteries, postcards), a restaurant, rooms for rent, and hot springs to soak in.

We recommend visiting their resupply page for instructions on sending a resupply package(it is specific). Contact the ranch by email at howdy@muirtrailranch.com. There is no phone at the ranch, and their business office phone is only connected from October through May. They do close down earlier than most resupply spots along the trail, so it’s important to contact them for hard and fast closing dates prior to your hike. If you plan on sending a resupply package to Muir Trail Ranch, mail package here:

• Your Name/Muir Trail Ranch/PO Box 176/Lakeshore CA, 93634/Arriving By: ETA

Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley (mile 180)

While resupply points along the first half of the JMT are plentiful and convenient, things change a bit after Muir Trail Ranch. You have to make the decision before you begin your hike to either carry all your food from Muir Trail Ranch to Whitney Portal (mile 110 to 220) or to break up this stretch and resupply in Onion Valley. We only recommend the first option for fast and light hikers who are able to complete the final stretch in 6-7 days max.

Though resupplying in Onion Valley comes with some inconveniences and extra mileage, for many, it’s the only option. For those hiking late in the year when resupply points such as Muir Trail Ranch are closed, this may be your only option unless you carry all your food from VVR to the end, which would be a very long haul.

Resupplying at Onion Valley adds an additional 14 miles roundtrip and will require you to climb over a small mountain pass on the way. Though additional mileage is a drag, the trail is quite beautiful as you pass Bullfrog Lake, Kearsarge Lakes, and Kearsarge Pass. If you haven’t prearranged a ride from Onion Valley trailhead, you’ll most likely have to hitchhike into Independence, which is a very small town (a couple gas stations and a few small shops).

Many people using Onion Valley as a resupply, either plan to pick up a resupply package at the post office or have arranged some sort of resupply with Mt. Williamson Motel and Base Camp, which will hold boxes or buckets for a $75 fee for those without a reservation. They also offer a complete and super convenient resupply package ($290 for one hiker, $390 for two) which includes a ride to and from the Onion Valley Campground, one night lodging, breakfast, laundry, receiving and holding your resupply package, and some other fun perks. Contact the friendly and super helpful woman named Strider at 760-878-2121 to arrange your resupply.

If you plan to ship a resupply package to the Independence Post Office, send your bucket/box to the address below. If you have any questions, you can contact them at 760-878-2210.

• Your Name c/o General Delivery/Independence Post Office/Independence, CA 935

Resources, Maps, & Guidebooks

As you begin planning your thru-hike, you’ll find there is no shortage of resources and guides on how to hike the John Muir Trail. The list below contains some of the resources we feel are most helpful in pre-trip planning as well as on-trail maps and guides.

• FarOut App – Almost everyone you run into on the JMT will have the FarOut App downloaded to their phone. It’s a great GPS resource that’s user-updated to give on-trail information regarding water sources, campsites, and other helpful trail info. It also tells you information such as mileage until the next campsite or location. Be careful – there are some campsites listed on the app that violate wilderness regulations and LNT guidelines.
• National Geographic John Muir Trail Topographic Map – This 48-page pamphlet-style map is an excellent on-trail resource. It’s waterproof, tear-resistant, and provides important information on mileage, water sources, resupply locations, campsites, and much more. We used it every single day and thought it was an incredible resource.
• John Muir Trail: The Essential Guide to Hiking America’s Most Famous Trail – (Wilderness Press) – Some people love this book, while others aren’t so smitten (too much detail, too heavy to hike with, and too small font). But it’s very complete and up-to-date on everything but permitting.
• John Muir Trail Data Book (Wilderness Press) – This edition is designed for weight-conscious trekkers. On-the-trail information, including custom-made topo maps, elevation profiles, data tables, and labeled panoramas from prominent passes. Also includes trail junctions, nearly 300 campsites, ranger stations, food-storage lockers, and lateral trails accessing the JMT.
• South-to-North Edition of The John Muir Trail: The Essential Guide to Hiking America’s Most Famous Trail (Wilderness Press) – If you’re determined to hike the trail from south to north, this is your book.
• John Muir Trail Pocket Hiking Atlas by Erik the Black – This packable resource shows detailed daily navigation topo maps, side trail info, resupply info, transit and permit guidance, GPS waypoints and distances between points, and cumulative mileage and elevation.
• PCTA Resource– Part of the JMT runs along the Pacific Crest Trail. There are some good tips on this page.

Water

In general, water sources along the JMT are plentiful – it’s rare you’ll hike more than a couple hours without hitting one. That said, late fall can be one of the drier times to hike due to lack of precipitation and dwindling snowfields. Always check your map for water sources, consult with fellow hikers, or use the FarOut app for updates on current conditions. If you’re using the National Geographic JMT Map, it labels known waterless stretches, such as the section from Guitar Lake to Whitney Trail Camp, and will indicate where you need to fill up. As a rule of thumb, it’s pretty common to hike with no more than two liters at any given time along the JMT.

Though many of the water sources you’ll find on the route run clear and appear free of sediment, you’ll still want to filter your water. We used the SteriPEN Ultra as our main purification method on the JMT. It’s lightweight, works fast, and doesn’t require any pumping, squeezing, or chemicals. If using a Steripen, it’s a good idea to bring a small and lightweight power bank such as the Miady Mini power bank to make sure you always have a backup charge. Another very popular and affordable option is the Sawyer Squeeze Micro.

In addition to our main filtering method, we typically backpack with chlorine dioxide pills as a backup if our main filtration system malfunctions, clogs, breaks, or loses battery. Check out our list of best water filters for our other top recommendations.

Bears & Food Storage

Since Yosemite, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon National Parks require the use of approved bear-proof food storage systems, bears are no longer the problem they were back in the 80s and 90s. In fact, the USFS says human-bear interactions are increasingly few and far between. Bears have learned that backpackers no longer mean easy access to food. That said, it’s critically important you use proper food storage to ensure human-bear interactions remain minimal. Unfortunately, if a bear becomes accustomed to human waste/food, they will be put down; be vigilant so that they may live!

All JMT hikers must carry and store their food and scented items (toiletries, trash, etc) in an approved bear canister for the entire route. We used the Bear Vault BV500 and it was a great size for our resupplies. At night, simply place your locked bear canister 100 feet away from your campsite. Avoid placing it near rivers, lakes, or cliffs. Though most people store bear canisters inside their backpacks while hiking, we found it convenient and comfortable to strap them to the top of our backpacks (just be careful with any food you don’t want to melt. Like chocolate. Mmm.).

Bugs

Mosquitoes and black flies love the John Muir Trail just as much as we do. They can be pretty vicious, especially in July and August. By September, most bugs have dissipated, making it a nice time to hike. The parts of the trail that can be hit the hardest are typically Tuolumne Meadows to Edison Lake, and the Rush Creek drainage.

We recommend using a combination of permethrin on your clothing and bringing a small bottle of DEET or Picardin Lotion (our choice) for exposed skin to provide full protection.

Leave No Trace

As with any outdoor space, preventing and minimizing human impact is crucial to the health of our wilderness. Individually, you may think that your fire, shallow cathole, or food scraps in the river aren’t going to harm an ecosystem, but there’s a large cumulative impact.

We share this space with tens of thousands of people hiking along the JMT corridor every year, and we all need to do our part to protect this spectacular trail. We recommend brushing up on Leave No Trace guidelines before you head out on the trail.

Gear List

Make sure to check out our Ultimate Backpacking Checklist, so you don’t forget something important.

Below you’ll find our current favorite backpacking gear. If you want to see additional options, our curated gear guides are the result of many years of extensive research and hands-on testing by our team of outdoor experts.

BACKPACK

• Best Backpacking Pack Overall: Gregory Paragon 58 – Men’s / Gregory Maven 58 – Women’s
• Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound 40
• More: Check out our best backpacking backpacks guide for ultralight and trekking options

TENT

• Best Backpacking Tent Overall: Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2
• Best Ultralight Tent: Zpacks Duplex
• Best Budget Tent: REI Half Dome 2
• Best Tent Stakes Overall: All One Tech Aluminum Stakes
• More: Check out our best backpacking tents guide for more options

SLEEPING BAG/QUILT

• Best Sleeping Bag Overall: Men’s Feathered Friends Swallow YF 20 / Women’s Feathered Friends Egret YF 20
• Best Quilt Overall: Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping bags guide and best backpacking quilts guide for more options

SLEEPING PAD

• Best Sleeping Pad Overall: NEMO Tensor All-Season
• Best Foam Sleeping Pad: NEMO Switchback
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping pads guide for ultralight and trekking options

CAMP KITCHEN

• Best Backpacking Stove Overall: MSR PocketRocket 2
• Best Backpacking Cookware Overall: TOAKS Titanium 750ml
• Best Backpacking Coffee Overall: Starbucks VIA
• More: Check out our best backpacking stoves guide and best backpacking cookware guide for ultralight and large group options

WATER & FILTRATION

• Best Water Filter Overall: Sawyer Squeeze
• Best Hydration Bladder Overall: Gregory 3D Hydro
• Best Backpacking Water Bottles: Smartwater Bottles
• More: Check out our best backpacking water filters guide and best backpacking water bottles guide for ultralight and large group options

CLOTHING

• Best Hiking Pants Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi / Women’s The North Face Aphrodite 2.0
• Best Hiking Shorts Overall: Men’s Patagonia Quandary / Women’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi
• Best Women’s Hiking Leggings: Fjallraven Abisko Trekking Tights HD
• Best Rain Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Rain Pants: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Down Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie / Women’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie
• Best Fleece Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Better Sweater / Women’s Patagonia Better Sweater
• Best Sunshirt Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Echo / Women’s Outdoor Research Echo
• Best Socks Overall: Men’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew / Women’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew
• Beste Ultralight Liner Glove: Patagonia Capilene Midweight Liner
• More: Check out our best backpacking apparel lists for more options

FOOTWEAR & TRACTION

• Best Hiking Shoes Overall: Men’s HOKA Speedgoat 6 / Women’s HOKA Speedgoat 6
• Best Hiking Boots Overall: Men’s Salomon X Ultra 5 GTX / Women’s Lowa Renegade Evo GTX
• Best Hiking Sandals Overall: Men’s Chaco Z/1 Classic / Women’s Chaco Z/1 Classic
• Best Camp Shoes Overall: Crocs Classic Clogs
• Best Traction Device for Hiking Overall: Kahtoola MICROspikes
• More: Check out our best backpacking footwear lists for more options

NAVIGATION

• Best GPS Watch Overall: Garmin Instinct 2 Solar
• Best Personal Locator Beacon (PLB): Garmin inReach Mini 2
• More: Check out our article How to Use Your Phone as a GPS Device for Backpacking & Hiking to learn more

FOOD

• Best Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Meals
• Best Vegan and Vegetarian Backpacking Meals
• Best Energy Bars
• Best Backpacking Meal Recipes

FIRST-AID & TOOLS

• Best First-Aid Kit Overall: Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .7
• Best Pocket Knife Overall: Kershaw Leek
• Best Multitool Overall: Leatherman Wave+
• Best Headlamp Overall: Black Diamond Spot 400-R
• Best Power Bank Overall: Nitecore NB 10000 Gen 3
• More: Check out our best first-aid kit guide, best pocket knife guide, best multitool guide, best backpacking headlamps guide, and best power banks guide for more options

MISCELLANEOUS

• Best Trekking Poles Overall: Black Diamond Pursuit
• Best Backpacking Chair Overall: REI Flexlite Air
• Best Backpacking Stuff Sack Overall: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Drawstring
• More: Check out our best trekking poles guide, best backpacking chairs guide, and best stuff sacks guide for more options

Conclusion

We hope this guide helps you plan your unforgettable journey along the John Muir Trail. As always, leave a comment below if you have any recommendations, questions, or suggestions.

Standing 5,000 feet above Yosemite Valley, Half Dome is without a doubt an icon. The route to the summit traverses some of Yosemite National Park’s most popular and spectacular hiking trails. It takes in its most famous waterfalls, Vernal and Nevada, passes beneath Liberty Cap and the face of Half Dome, and winds through an amazing forest of Sequoia trees. The most exhilarating part of the hike — hauling yourself up the cables to the summit of Half Dome — is a challenge you won’t soon forget. The ultimate reward for all your hard work is one of the best views in Yosemite Valley.

Make no mistake, this hike requires considerable effort. Gaining over 5,000 feet of elevation in eight miles is no easy feat. You’ll also need a lot of luck to snag one of the competitive hiking permits. But if the stars align and you’re physically prepared for the challenge, you’re in for one heck of an adventure.

Quick Facts

• Distance: 16.4 Miles roundtrip via Mist Trail
• Days Needed: 1-3 days – Most people complete as a long day hike
• Elevation Gain/Loss: 5,457 ft (1,663 m)
• Best Travel Time: June – October
• Permits: Required
• Difficulty: Very strenuous

Best Time To Hike

The National Park Service installs the cables on Half Dome around Memorial Day (late May) if conditions permit and takes them down around the first week in October. As long as the cables are up, you have a permit, and the weather is safe, you can climb Half Dome. Check with Yosemite National Park for current conditions and firm dates.

You can technically hike Half Dome when the cables are down (more on that below). However, we don’t recommend it.

If you want to see the spectacular waterfalls in all their glory, you’ll want to hike Half Dome earlier in the season when water levels are high. Hiking in the fall months will bring beautiful colors, snow-free trails, and fewer bugs but less spectacular waterfalls.

How to Get a Permit

You need a permit to hike Half Dome once the National Park Service has installed the cables. Permits are awarded two ways: a preseason lottery (March submission) or a daily lottery during hiking season.

The preseason lottery is competitive with over 35,000 applicants and a ~22% success rate. The daily lottery has over 29,000 applicants with a ~19% success rate.

Preseason Lottery

With only 300 permits awarded each day (225 for day hikers and 75 for backpackers), snagging a Half Dome permit is tough. The application period is from March 1st to March 31st for all preseason lottery submissions. Permits cost $10 per application (non-refundable), regardless of the number of people listed on the application.

To apply, visit the recreation.gov website. If you win a permit, you’ll be notified by email in mid-April. Hikers lucky enough to score a Half Dome permit will then pay a second fee of $10 per person.

One person (called the team leader) can apply for up to six people for seven different dates. The team leader is only allowed to apply once per lottery. Don’t even try to apply multiple times – all of your permit applications will be deleted from the lottery. The trip leader or the alternate person listed on the application must be present at the sub-dome when the permits are checked.

Your permit is “use it, or lose it.” In other words, it’s non-transferable.

TIP: If you are looking for the highest likelihood that you’ll get a permit, check out these graphs, which show how popular different days are for permit applications. If you have the flexibility, avoid submitting for a permit to hike on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

If you’re backpacking and want to camp in Little Yosemite Valley, you’ll need to request a Half Dome permit with your wilderness permit. For more information on the backcountry and Half Dome permit process, visit Yosemite’s NPS page to help with the process.

Daily Lottery

If you were unable to snag a permit during the preseason lottery, you’re not completely out of luck. Another batch of permits is awarded on a daily basis; the number is dependent on cancellations and no-shows. You can apply online for these permits two days before your anticipated hiking date. Visit Recreation.gov to file your application for a daily permit.

If you have any questions, call 877-444-6777. For more information, visit the National Park Service website.

Difficulty

The route to the summit of Half Dome ascends 5,457 feet in 8.2 miles, which means it’s a constant climb the entire way. The trail, however, is well-maintained and easy to follow.

If completed in a day, we rate this hike as very strenuous due to the mileage, elevation gain/loss, and the added obstacle of climbing the cables at the end. Do not underestimate this trail. Strong legs, decent upper body strength, and nerves of steel are all required for this hike, especially the cable-assisted climb section. We highly recommend training vigorously starting at least 3-4 weeks prior to hitting the trail.

If you plan to do this hike in one day, it will take between 10 to 12 hours to reach the summit of Half Dome and return to the trailhead. Check sunrise and sunset times before you hike. You’ll need to start around sunrise and set a non-negotiable turn-around time for your group.

Many hikers set a firm 4 pm turnaround time in summer for reaching the top of Half Dome. This gives you about 5 hours of diminishing daylight to get back to the valley before nightfall.

If you’re just hitting the subdome at 4 pm, it’s best to give it up or be prepared to return in the dark. Always pack a trusty headlamp, just in case. It weighs next to nothing and can be a lifesaver.

Trailhead and Parking

Campgrounds

If you plan to car camp before or after your hike, the nearest campgrounds to the Mist Trailhead are Upper, Lower, and North Pines Campgrounds. Be sure to plan ahead and reserve well in advance because reservations are very difficult to get in the summer. Camp 4 walk-in campground is very competitive and is also usually full. The best practice is to book your campground as soon as you get your permits approved in mid-April.

The nearest campgrounds outside Yosemite Valley are Bridalveil Creek Campground and Tamarack Flat Campgrounds.

The Hike

The Mist Trail begins as a steep paved trail that steadily gains elevation. From the trailhead to the top of Vernal Falls is 1.5 miles.

Just past the Vernal Falls footbridge, there’s a potable water station. This is your last chance for purified drinking water on the hike, so drink up and fill your bottles or bladder. We recommend carrying 2-3 liters from this point – maybe more on hot summer days.

The trail takes a strenuous steady climb to the falls, following a slippery rock staircase up along the river. Expect to get misted as the trail makes its way to a fabulous view at the top of the falls.

Beyond Vernal Falls, the trail continues onward and upward for 2 miles to Nevada Falls, winding through a forest canopy and more rock and boulder “stairways to heaven.” At the top of Nevada Falls (4.3 miles in), the trail splits, heading left to Half Dome, or right for a half-mile round trip to an optional overlook. (If you take the Muir Trail on your return, you’ll pass this same viewpoint).

The trail then passes through Little Yosemite Valley and its campground and begins to climb to the subdome. You’ll see intermittent views through the trees of climbers on the cables and the summit of Half Dome.

At 8,000 feet, you reach the subdome. Once you crest it, the views get increasingly better. But with each step, breathing gets a little harder. At this point, take a rest and secure your water bottles and any loose gear. Eat some food and hydrate.

The steel cables, placed at 45-50 degree angles, also come into focus, and you get a sense of what you’re in for. Soon you’ll start up the slick rock (granite) route worn smooth by millions of boots and begin the body-and mind-challenging grind to the top.

It’ll take between 20 and 40 minutes on the cables to get to the top of Half Dome, depending on the size of the crowd waiting and your upper body strength. Once you summit, your time will be limited only by the number of other people up there. No matter – it is a stunning, rewarding view unlike any other.

The Descent

It can take 45-50 minutes to get back down to the subdome, depending on the crowd and the number of approaching climbers you have to maneuver around on the cables.

Breathe. Be Chill. Take your time, take some photos, and enjoy the view.

At the top of Nevada Falls, make a decision: The Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail.

If you still have daylight, take the Muir trail and enjoy the falls and views of Liberty Cap. In either case, if you still have daylight, the going is fast back to the trailhead, though it can be tough on the knees. Once down, catch the free shuttle back to your car or head to a concession to celebrate!

Alternative Routes

Although most people begin and end their hike via the Mist Trail, there are some alternative routes that offer different viewpoints and difficulty levels.

• Return via John Muir Trail 16.5 miles total — The Muir Trail gives you a different view of Half Dome than the Mist Trail and provides scenic views of Nevada Falls. It’s a bit longer but offers a less steep descent than the Mist Trail.
• Round trip via Glacier Point: 20 miles total — The hike from Glacier Point will be longer and more difficult, but the reward will be far less crowds and stunning views.

Half Dome Cables

The famous Half Dome cables have captivated hikers for decades. What should you expect?

Two metal cable lines allow hikers to navigate the last 400 feet to the summit without rock climbing equipment. The cables are usually erected in late May and removed in early October. They are placed several feet above the rock surface (about waist-high) with wooden planks about every 10 to 12 feet that reinforce the stanchions and provide some relief from rock worn smooth by millions of people having traversed it.

We highly recommend bringing gloves with good traction to make it easier to grab the cables and pull yourself along. If you already own the gear or can afford to rent it, it’s not a bad idea to use a climbing harness with a tether to a carabiner that can be clipped onto the cables as well. Also, the cables can get very congested by mid-day, making it much more time-consuming and potentially dangerous as you have to navigate around other hikers moving in both directions. We highly recommend getting a very early start to avoid prime-time congestion by mid-day.

If you’re afraid of heights or unprepared for the strenuous challenge of climbing the cables, we highly recommend not attempting this section of the hike. Once you start hiking up the cables, it will be very hard to turn around, and going down can be scarier than going up.

Although relatively few people have died traversing Half Dome over the past century, there’s definitely a risk for unprepared or careless hikers. Ten people have died falling from the cable section of Half Dome. Of those fatal falls, five occurred when the rock was wet. Three people have died from lightning strikes on top of Half Dome, so take stormy conditions very seriously. Recently, a couple died while taking a selfie on the summit too close to the edge of a big drop-off. Please take extreme care during all stages of this hike.

Can I Hike Half Dome When The Cables Are Down?

The short answer is yes, it is legal to hike Half Dome when the cables are down. But it’s at your own risk, and we don’t recommend it. You should consider this an option only if you’re a highly experienced climber/hiker.

When the cables are down, it means the stanchions (support poles) have been removed that hold the cables up at elbow/waist height. At this point, the cables are just lying on the granite slope. So instead of working along a fixed cable, you’ll need to pick it up and hike up it (with the possibility of other hikers pulling on the same cable).

There are a couple of situations where this should most definitely be avoided. When the granite is wet, it’s too slippery to get any grip on the approach. Also, if there’s a possibility of stormy weather or snow/ice on the route, you should definitely not attempt to summit.

Wilderness permits are required during off-season too – though, you won’t need a reservation from November through April. For this trip, you must get your permit from the permit station nearest the trailhead.

Do I Need A Harness?

Most people do not use a harness to climb Half Dome. That said, some do, and it’s the optimal way to ensure safety (and peace of mind) while ascending and descending the cables.

If heights make you nervous, we highly recommend wearing a harness or not attempting this section of the hike. If you decide to use safety equipment, we recommend a Via Ferrata, which is a Y-shaped lanyard with carabiners to clip onto the cables. You will need a harness to properly attach the personal protection system to yourself.

The cables are not unimpeded or continuous, so the two carabiners allow you to move one carabiner to the next section of cable above the eyebolt without ever being unprotected. Most people do not wear a helmet to climb Half Dome. We recommend practicing with this gear before heading up the cables to ensure you know how to use the gear properly and efficiently.

Backpacking Options

Although most people hike half dome as a long and strenuous day hike, there are options to make the route more manageable by spending 2-3 days on your approach and descent.

Permits can be very competitive for backcountry campgrounds in the Yosemite Valley. But if you’re able to procure one, it can make your visit to Half Dome very enjoyable.

One option would be to hike 4.3 miles on the first day to an overnight staging camp at Little Yosemite Campground. The next day, hike 7 miles round trip to Half Dome and either return to the trailhead or camp at Little Yosemite for a second night. Then hike out on Day 3 hike via the Muir or Mist Trails.

Black Bears and Critters

Black bears are not uncommon in the Yosemite Valley. Your likelihood of seeing one along such a highly trafficked route is quite low, but not unheard of.

If you encounter a black bear, make a lot of noise and attempt to scare it away. The black bears in Yosemite can be quite habituated to humans and are adept at obtaining food from hikers who have left food unattended or stored improperly.

Never feed bears, or any other wildlife for that matter. A fed bear is a dead bear – bears often have to be put down once they learn to associate humans with food. So please, always keep your food in your backpack or within arms length.

Follow the same guidelines for any critters you encounter in the park; never feed them. Bear Canisters are required for all overnight backcountry trips in Yosemite NP.

Gear List

Visiting Half Dome as a day hike is no walk in the park. It’s a very strenuous hike with high mileage and a lot of elevation gain. We recommend looking over this list of 10 Things You Should Bring on Every Day Hike prior to hitting the trail.

Here’s the most important gear that should be in your pack.

DAYPACK – A well-fitting and comfortable daypack is essential for carrying the gear you’ll need for Half Dome. Choose a pack large enough to carry essential gear with convenient storage compartments and easy access to water bottles or a hydration bladder. To learn more about the most important daypack considerations and to see our top backpack recommendations, check out our Best Hiking Daypacks list.

HIKING SHOES – Make sure you have a good pair of trail runners or hiking boots with sticky outsoles and sufficient traction. This is very important because the granite at the top of Half Dome has been polished smooth by thousands of hikers before you. For our top recommendations on hiking shoes, check out our lists, Best Hiking Shoes for Men & Best Hiking Shoes for Women.

GLOVES – You will absolutely want to use a pair of gloves for hiking the cables on Half Dome. You’ll want to be able to firmly grip the slippery cables and prevent your hands from being torn up. We recommend Nitrile Multi-Purpose Utility Work Gloves. At times, there will be a mixed pile of gloves at the base of Half Dome you can borrow, but you shouldn’t rely on this. If you bring gloves with you, please pack them out. The NPS regularly ends up hauling out lots of glove trash.

HEADLAMP – The best-laid plans may have you off the trail before dark, but you should always be prepared for the unexpected. Sometimes a hike will take longer than planned, and getting lost in the dark can quickly compound into a bad situation. Always bring a reliable headlamp – it weighs next to nothing and can be a lifesaver. We have a great list of the best headlamps on the market

SUN PROTECTION – Although the beginning of this hike is through shaded forest, the second half to Subdome and Half Dome have high sun exposure and little to no shade. Sun protection is an incredibly important part of any hike, even when the weather is cloudy. Sunscreen, SPF lip balm, sunglasses (preferably polarized), a brimmed hat, and protective clothing should be considered essential on every hiking trip.

TREKKING POLES (optional) – Trekking poles can be very useful on some parts of this trail but an annoyance/handicap on others.

You won’t want to use them near the top of this climb, for example. But trekking poles may be beneficial on other steep sections of the hike. For a list of our top recommendations, check out our list of the best trekking poles.

WATER – Perhaps the most important consideration on this hike, you’ll want to make sure you have a solid hydration plan. Treated water is available in summer at a drinking fountain at the Vernal Fall Footbridge (less than a mile from the trailhead). You’ll also be able to get water from the Merced River up to Little Yosemite Valley, but you’ll have to treat that water with a filter or purifier.

After that point, there’s little chance of reliable water for the rest of the hike. We recommend filling up your water bottles or bladder in the Little Yosemite Valley and treating it with a lightweight water filter (here’s a list of our favorite filters and purifiers). Weather conditions and personal preference will affect the amount of water you’ll need, but a good rule of thumb is to plan on at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day.

FOOD AND SNACKS – When preparing for any day hike, you’ll want to make sure to bring along enough calories to sustain your energy for a long day of activity. We commonly bring several bars (Larabar, Clif Bar, ProBar, Luna, and Kind bars tend to be our favorites), dried fruits, nuts, and jerky while we hike. For a more substantial lunch, we like to pack tortillas or bagels and make sandwiches with hard meats (like salami) and cheeses (like parmesan).

We recommend bringing a little more food than you think you’ll need, just to be certain you don’t go hungry. For more ideas, check out our Backpacking and Hiking Food Guide.

TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP & COMPASS – Although the trails in Yosemite are well-marked, you should always hike with a topographical map and compass. We found the National Geographic Yosemite National Park map to be a great resource for this hike.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT – If you opt to use climbing gear, we recommend a Via Ferrata (a personal protection system with two carabiners and a y-shaped lanyard). This should be looped to a harness. Most people do not wear helmets to climb Half Dome, but that’s up to you.

Safety & Tips

• Take it easy on the steel cables. Don’t rush but keep moving to prevent traffic jams.
• Allow faster hikers to pass you (when possible).
• Always remain on the inside of the cables.
• Skip the final cable ascent if you have a fear of heights. It will wreck you with anxiety and be a bottleneck to other hikers. Once you’re on the cables, you have to be committed and confident, especially if there are crowds of people waiting to go up.
• If you’re nervous but still confident you can complete Half Dome, you can wear a harness with a carabiner to clip into the cables. More information on that is above in the Half Dome Cables section and Safety Equipment section.
• Train for this hike with lots of miles of steep ascents and descents. Even people in peak physical shape will likely arrive at the subdome feeling exhausted. Keep in mind that you will also need upper body strength to navigate the cables to the top.
• Once you summit, you face a minimum of four more hours of hiking to return to the trailhead in Yosemite Valley – which can be tough on the knees.

Do Not Attempt Half Dome If:

• Storm clouds are on the horizon or overhead. Three people have been struck and killed by lightning on Half Dome. Keep an eye on the weather (we like NOAA’s point forecast)
• It has been raining very recently. The cables and rock will be very slick and slippery. Most accidents on the cables occur during wet conditions.
• You are not in good physical shape. This is one of the most challenging hikes in the park, and for many, it will be the hardest hike they’ve ever attempted. You will be climbing over 5,000 feet, and if you’re fatigued before you even reach the cables, it can quickly turn into a dangerous situation. Train properly and know your own limitations before hitting the trail.
• The cables are down for the winter (unless you’re a very experienced all-season hiker or climber). It can be incredibly dangerous to attempt Half Dome when the cables are down, so we don’t recommend it. See notes above.

Final Thoughts

Hiking Half Dome is an absolute bucket lister for most hikers, and it’s well worth the effort. The view from the top looking down into Yosemite Valley is like no other; the ultimate reward for all your hard work.

But do not underestimate what it will take to climb Half Dome. This is a strenuous and full-day adventure, so make sure you’re prepared for it. Train properly, pack the right gear, and know what you’re in for.

If you do that, you’ll earn one of our nation’s best vistas and create memories you won’t soon forget.

Joshua Tree National Park is aptly named after the tree-like succulents with stemless pointed leaves that only grow in a small swath of the Mojave Desert in California. Mormon settlers thought the plant’s sprawling, zig-zagging branches resembled the outstretched arms of the biblical Joshua, so they dubbed it the Joshua Tree.

Joshua tree is a fantastic place to hike. On top of its iconic Joshua trees, the park boasts other unique plants and animals in a surreal landscape of granite monoliths and rock garden labyrinths filled with house-sized boulders. The area is also noteworthy for its exceptionally dark night skies, rich cultural history, incredible rock climbing, and unique hiking options. This guide outlines our favorite hikes in the park and all the information you’ll need to plan your Joshua Tree adventure.

Best Hikes In Joshua Tree NP

Hidden Valley Trail

• Distance: 1 mile
• Difficulty: Easy

Located near Twentynine Palms, this a good trail to get out and stretch your legs after first arriving to the western edge of Joshua Tree. This one-mile, mostly level trail circles around a small valley scattered with massive boulders. Think of it as a sampler trail that provides a solid overview of the park’s unique geology, plant life, and rock formations.

Hidden Valley is also a popular climbing and bouldering area. You can spend hours watching people scale the walls, but don’t expect solitude. That said, it’s worth a quick visit to wander through this boulder oasis.

Wonderland Wash

• Distance: 2.1 miles (roundtrip)
• Difficulty: Easy

A lightly traveled whisper of a trail, this hike captures the essence of Joshua Tree. It’s a faint but obvious trail, partially following a wash. The elevation gain is a mere 75-feet total, but you’re bound to be slack-jawed the entire way. The rocks here are crazy fun, including one that looks like a whale when you first pass it but transforms into a panther as you return and see it in a whole new light.

Many hikers overlook this trail in this part of the park because they are too busy scrambling up the amazing rocks on the way to the Astro Dome. The trailhead is just south of both the west and the north entrance to the park.

Ryan Mountain

• Distance: 2.8 miles roundtrip
• Difficulty: Moderate

Located in the center of the park, Ryan Mountain is the closest trail to the west entrance. The trail is a well-maintained combination of dirt and constructed stone steps. It’s a steady 1,200 ft climb to the 5,400-foot summit, but hikers get rewarded with the most comprehensive views of the entire park.

The crowds can get pretty thick on this trail during peak season. Consider timing your trek for sunset, but bring a headlamp and trekking poles (to help warn rattlesnakes of your approach). Watching the sun go down across this desert has inspired legions of hikers, artists and musicians.

Pine City

• Distance: 3.9 miles
• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Located in a maze of canyons in the northeast corner of Queen Valley, Pine City Trail gets its name from all the pinyon pines in the area. Hikers will love the largely flat wandering through a maze of boulder-riddled rock gardens.

You’ll love it even more if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the small Desert Bighorn Sheep herd that visits the area. They generally come for the shade, vegetation and numerous potholes in the early morning or early evening.

Pine City Trail is a designated Day Use Area Only, so you’ll have to get up early to see them. The trip to Pine City Overlook is short and easy, but strong hikers will want to drop in and explore the maze of canyons below it.

Warren Peak

• Distance: 5.35 miles (roundtrip)
• Difficulty: East

If Ryan Mountain is worth climbing for the sunset, Warren Peak is the one you want for sunrise – although, you’ll work a little harder for it in terms of distance (not elevation).

Located near the Black Rock Campground in the quiet northwestern section of Joshua Tree, this low-crowd hike descends into a wash. The way through the moderately deep sandy wash is fairly obvious, but it’ll likely take longer than you’d expect to traverse it. Once through the wash, it tracks across the scrub-dominated desert before finally beginning an earnest climb via switchbacks and a final steep climb (in the last quarter mile) toward the rocky summit.

One of the unique features of this hike is that it lies in the park’s Colorado and Mohave ecological transition zone. This means you’ll see few Joshua Trees but a scattering of pinyon, juniper and oak that you’ll rarely see anywhere else in the park.

Lost Horse Mine Loop

• Distance: 6.4 miles
• Difficulty: Moderate

Located in the Southwest section of the park, this is an interesting trail offering a good mix of Joshua Trees, cacti, and horizon views across the desert. It also includes a bit of history, including a closed mine and graffiti from Gram Parsons from the ’70s band, the Eagles – look for his signature on the rock shelf near the mine’s entrance).

Ascending only 810 feet, this trail is fairly easy with a few short sections requiring extra effort. It’s best to hike to the mine clockwise, getting the ascent out of the way before the heat sets in. You’ll also get more spectacular views of the desert basins to the east.

A couple of cautions:

1. Get here early. The parking lot is small and fills up fast.
2. Carry extra water. Like many Joshua Tree trails, the sun exposure in this particular area is direct with no shade to speak of.

The Maze Loop

• Distance: 4.7-8.2 miles (depending on route)
• Difficulty: Moderate

Though there are many variations of this hike, the standard 4.7 mile Maze Loop is a great, mid-range day hike in Joshua Tree. You’ll slowly meander your way toward peaks that provide excellent views of the National Park. Along the way there’ll be plenty of stacked rock formations, low slot canyons formed from boulders, juniper, Joshua Trees and desert expanse.

The park service has finally beefed up signage in this area as it truly is a maze. That said, always carry a map and pay attention because you’ll be traversing in and out of washes along faint trails in a landscape of low-lying shrub.

Optional Grand Loop: If you have the time and energy, we recommend combining the three loop trails for a 8.2 mile adventure. Take the Maze Loop trail just under 2 miles to where it meets up with the Window Loop Trail. Follow the Window Loop and gain elevation steadily. The Window Loop curves back around and reconnects with the Maze Loop, but instead of following it back to the trailhead, continue straight ahead to the North View Trail (where you’re likely to see desert tortoise, lizards, snakes and birds) and a junction with the Big Pine Trail. Stay on the North View Trail to where it cuts south (after a steady climb), and then eventually you’ll head back to The Maze trailhead.

Willow Hole and the Wonderland of Rocks

• Distance: 7.1 miles
• Difficulty: Easy

With a net elevation gain of only 22 feet, this is a fairly level out-and-back trail. Though the Willow Hole Trail is marked, sections of the route traverse through washes and can be confusing, sandy, and faint. Always carry a map, especially if you want to explore the fantastic rock gardens in the Wonderland of Rocks, which is a complex maze in its own right.

You’ll navigate a few tight spots before the wash opens up and reaches the towering rock formations. The minimal elevation gain can be deceptive, however, as deep sand impedes the last part of this trail, which ends at a seasonal waterhole under a willow tree, your turnaround point. The Day Use Only area, especially at Willow Hole, serves as a water source for Bighorn Sheep, but is also a micro-habitat that supports a wide range of plants and wildlife.

Lost Palms Oasis

• Distance: 7.4 miles (roundtrip)
• Difficulty:  Moderate

Located near the Cottonwood entrance in the the southeast part of the park, this trail offers a wide variety of terrain, a diversity of vegetation (including the spectacular fan palm), wildflowers, long horizon views, and wildlife sightings.

The best route to the oasis avoids dropping in at the Lost Palms Canyon sign, where the steep sand and gravel-strewn route makes for difficult descending. Instead, head to the right and and find the Lost Palms Canyon path. From there, look for cairns and follow them into the canyon that takes you to the eponymous oasis.

Summit Springs

• Distance: 11.4 miles (roundtrip)
• Difficulty: Strenuous

Located beyond Lost Palms Oasis in a palm grove deep in the isolated Munsen Canyon, Summit Springs is an epic desert trek in a landscape punctuated with Mojave yucca, cholla cacti, jojoba, juniper, creosote, and palo verde trees, to name a few. You’ll also encounter deep narrow canyon floors, ubiquitous Fan Palms, challenging boulder obstacles, and pour-offs. But there’s also beautiful spring-fed pools.

Accessed from the Cottonwood Spring Trailhead and with 2,510′ total round-trip elevation gain, this trail requires substantial desert wilderness hiking experience, as well as bouldering, scrambling, and solid navigation skills. The trail descends and winds through fan palms, mesquite, cats claw, and desert willow before entering a maze of washes and canyons and rippling ridgelines. Even though it’s a pretty obvious trail most of the way, route finding will be needed around transition points or junctions, around washes, and in and out of canyons.

Best Time To Visit

The best time to visit Joshua Tree is March through April and October through November. Spring is the best season to experience the desert at its most brilliant as the desert brims with the bloom of wildflowers and cacti.

Visiting in winter months can be very nice, too, as daytime temperatures are pleasant and crowds are thinner compared to spring and fall.

During the summer, temperatures often soar dangerously high into the 100s during the day and drop down to 50-degree temps at night. You should also be prepared for sudden lightning storms (June-August). We always recommend checking the local forecast before heading out.

What Gear Do I Need For A Day Hike?

For first-timers and sage backcountry travelers alike, dialing in essential day hiking gear is an important part of any pre-trip preparations. When things go wrong outdoors, knowing What To Pack on Your Day Hike can mean the difference between a minor inconvenience and actual danger. Educate yourself on the 10 Things You Should Bring On Every Day Hike to ensure you have a safe and comfortable wilderness adventure.

For more information, check out our Best Hiking Daypacks post where we outline top recommendations for packs that balance comfort, convenience, weight, and cost.

Where To Camp

According to Joshua Tree National Park, visitation has doubled in the over the past five years, Spring – specifically Spring Break – is peak season. Some campgrounds are first come, first served. Others absolutely require pre-reservations during peak season. Find out more on campgrounds and reservations on the National Park Service’s Joshua Tree page. Reservations may be made on recreation.gov.

Most of the first-come first-serve sites are located near self-guided nature walks, shorter hikes, popular rock climbing areas, and day-use picnic areas. Most have pit toilets. Look for the fee pay area, and then post your pay stub on the campsite post correlating with the campsite number.

First-come, First-Serve Campsites

• Hidden Valley
• Belle
• White Tank

Reservable Campsites

• Jumbo Rocks (in the main park)
• Cottonwood (near the south entrance)
• Black Rock (entrance in the town of Yucca Valley)
• Indian Cove (entrance in the town of Twentynine Palms)
• Ryan (centrally located, adjacent to the California Riding and Hiking Trail)

If all the sites are full, consider private campgrounds or dispersed camping on BLM land. There are expansive areas for free dispersed BLM camping north of the park and south of the park. This is a great option if you’re traveling with a camper van, RV, or you’re looking to pitch a tent for free. Expect no water, no toilets, no fire rings, no trash cans, and no picnic tables. 

Also, please leave no trace – minimize your impact while you’re visiting and pack everything out. Accessing the BLM land typically does not require 4-wheel drive, but you will be traveling on sandy dirt roads, so be aware of weather conditions; it can turn into a mud pit after rain.

Maps And Guidebooks

National Geographic Joshua Tree National Park Trails Illustrated Map – This is the best map for navigating the various trails in Joshua Tree. It provides the level of detail needed for all but the most vague trails.

• Joshua Tree: The Complete Guide: Joshua Tree National Park – This book provides an enormous amount of information on hiking in the park, along with plenty of inspiring photographs.
• Best Easy Day Hikes in Joshua Tree – This is a handy little guide to a selection of the best trails in the park. It’s small enough to stuff in a daypack or pants pocket.

Water

According to Joshua Tree NP, you should plan to carry all the water you will need for your hike. Natural water sources are scarce, easily polluted, and should not be used. We recommend carrying at least one gallon (4 liters) of water per person for a full-day in the heat.

Backpacking In The Park

Although most people visiting Joshua Tree are looking to day hike, there are some wonderful opportunities to get away from the crowds and spend a night under the stars. The lack of reliable water sources usually limits people to no more than 1-2 nights in the backcountry, so plan accordingly to avoid putting yourself in a dangerous situation.

Before you head out into the fragile desert backcountry, we highly recommend brushing up on Leave No Trace guidelines as they pertain to the desert. There are no designated backcountry campgrounds in Joshua Tree. That said, the park strongly encourages you to select the most durable possible location to pitch your tent. Sleeping and cooking areas should be on flat rocks, in sandy washes (except in the case of flash flood threat), or under trees. Campsites must be at least one mile from any trailhead or road and 500 feet from trails or water sources (seeps, springs, oases).

You’ll need to register for a backcountry permit before heading out. For more information on backpacking in Joshua Tree, please visit the NPS.gov backpacking page.

Bears do it, rabbits do it, heck, even lizards do it. So what’s so wrong with a human taking a turd in the woods and leaving it to the elements? What’s so special about human poop that merits burial? Well, it turns out there are a lot of good reasons why you should bury your scat. And sadly, improperly buried human waste (and soiled toilet paper) is by far the most common form of pollution we find in the wilderness.

Last year, more than 2 million people added hiking and backpacking to their list of hobbies. About 63 million people hiked last year alone (according to the Outdoor Industry Association’s executive report). So, we all must use a responsible and safe method for pooping in the woods. It’s a health hazard if we don’t #2 like a pro in the wilderness.

According to Leave No Trace, proper disposal of human waste is important to avoid pollution of water sources, minimize the possibility of spreading disease, and maximize the rate of decomposition. But it’s also just plain gross to hike around an area where human feces and pieces of used toilet paper are spread all over the place.

In this article, we give you all the nuggets on how to poop in the woods properly. If you follow our guide, you will have a sanitary and pleasant wild number two that doesn’t leave a trace or desecrate the wilderness.

Why Your Wild Poo is a Problem

The problem of human waste in the outdoors is well researched. In the National Park Service article, “What to Do About Number Two? Insights from Decades of Human Waste Research and Management on Mount McKinley,” glacial geologists are monitoring and trying to manage human waste on North America’s tallest summit, Denali (20,310 feet).

The most straightforward route is inundated with poo bags that climbers and hikers pitch into crevasses en route to and from the peak. Glaciologist Michael Loso says an estimated 88 metric tons of excrement are in crevasses on the Kahiltna Glacier, the busiest trail in the Denali Wilderness. That’s over nine full-sized cement trucks. Gross.

This is no “out of sight, out of mind” problem. Research shows this waste remains biologically active for decades and will re-emerge on the glacier surface (largely intact) within the next 50 to 200 years. Glaciers are always moving and melting faster than ever, so this waste is already contributing low but detectable levels of E. coli to downstream meltwater.

Not pooping on a glacier? You still need to dispose of your waste properly. Here are a multitude of reasons why improper human downloads are a growing problem in our wilderness areas:

1. Our poop isn’t locally grown: Our poop has traces of things not found in nature, which can end up in the soil or be attractive to curious or starving animals.
2. It can contaminate water: Heavy rain or snowmelt can send feces and pathogens into waterways, ponds, or even sinkholes that humans and animals use for drinking water. Studies show human waste is a major contributor to the prevalence of Giardia in wilderness groundwater. See Wyoming’s stunning Lonesome Lake’s contamination.
3. People who don’t bury their poop also don’t pack out their toilet paper: It is trashy, and we are mad at you. Nothing is more disgusting than seeing used toilet paper in a “pristine” wilderness. Are you a well-meaning person who buries their TP? It still can come to the surface months or even years later due to frost heaves, erosion, or a curious critter.
4. It can ruin someone’s wilderness experience: Camping near or accidentally finding someone else’s poop is just plain smelly and gross. That’s not the experience hikers are looking for when they head out for peace and tranquility in a beautiful backcountry location.

How To Poop in the Woods

Try not to wait until you’re “prairie doggin.” Dehydration, a hipbelt pressing on your poop shoot, and a diet your tummy isn’t used to, all can make your #2s a little less predictable.

Rushing into the woods will cause you to choose a subpar location and dig an insufficient cathole. This is how people accidentally contaminate water or expose other humans and wildlife to your emergency “sh*tuation.”

Pro tip: Try to poop once you are out of camp or while hiking if there aren’t any outhouses. The obvious places, ~200 ft away from trails, campsites and water, will be where 90% of other backpackers have pooped during their morning routine in camp. We’ve dug up someone’s cathole on accident before, and it’s horrifying.

Here’s a rundown of your options, and where and when to choose one over another:

OUTHOUSE

When you’re staying in a backcountry campground and there’s an outhouse on site – use it. Many are engineered to be highly efficient composters and aren’t as stinky as you would expect. And some even have magnificent views! Using an outhouse while in the backcountry contains human waste so that park or wilderness management can remove and process it. This is the best practice for keeping high-traffic areas or sensitive landscapes healthy and clean.

CATHOLE BURIAL

When no outhouse is present, digging a cathole is the most widely accepted method of backcountry human waste disposal.

Catholes are easy to dig in most areas, especially below treeline, where there is ample organic matter. We highly recommend backpacking with a trowel (or a snow stake) to dig a good cathole.

This disposal method disperses the poo rather than concentrating it in one area. It also hides your waste, ensuring no one else encounters it. But a cathole’s decomposition rate can be pretty slow, so choosing the right spot will help speed the process up.

Here’s the basics: find an appropriate place at least 200 feet from all water sources, trails, or campsites. Use a trowel, snow stake, or rocks/sticks/hands to dig a cathole 6-8 inches deep (about the length of the trowel blade) and 4-6 inches in diameter. Never use a trowel near your poop.

When finished, fill the hole with the dirt you dug out and disguise it with a handful of rocks or dead vegetation (leaves, tree branches, etc). Don’t place a big rock on it, as that will make it harder for the heat of the sun to get to the poo to help break it down.

In our clean-up section, we discuss what to do with your toilet paper. Hint, don’t bury it in your cat hole.

If you have a panic poop: These are not fun, but we know they happen. If you have an emergency poop, get to the best spot you can and go. Then, carefully dig a hole nearby and use a stick/rock to move any feces/organic matter that touched it into the hole. Cover it, and make sure nothing that touched your brown town is left outside of the cathole.

CAT HOLES: LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Here are our suggestions for what to look for when it comes to finding the best place to drop trou in the outdoors:

A spot that is at least 200 feet (that’s about 70 paces) from all water sources, trails, or campsites.

A less traveled spot near thick undergrowth, downed timber, or on a hillside.

Several spots over a wide area – if you’re camping with a group in the same area for more than one night. As LNT states: “Don’t go to the same place twice.”

Look for a site with complex soil (dark and rich in color) or an elevated spot where water doesn’t normally travel during a rainstorm, and gets maximum sunlight (which aids decomposition).

In the desert, look for an area devoid of visible previous water flow (like dry sandy washes that flood during rainstorms). It should also have strong sun exposure (like south-facing slopes and ridge tops). The sun’s heat will penetrate desert soil several inches deep, so it can eventually kill pathogenic organisms.

Packing Out your poo

Packing out your waste is the most environmentally friendly method. That said, you’ll be hard-pressed to find many backpackers who use this method unless the wilderness area mandates it.

Mandatory “carry-everything-out” programs actually started back in the 1980s, and some sensitive areas like glaciers, deserts, or high-traffic places require this method of waste disposal to this day. For example, Mount Shasta requires you to pack out your human waste. You can also be ticketed for violating this regulation.

Commercial “WAG bags” (stands for waste alleviation and gelling) are a very useful product when you’re traveling in an area that requires you to pack out all human waste. They’re easy to use and not nearly as gross as you might think.

You take the inner bag out and poop directly into it. Then you seal that puncture-resistant bag and place it in the outer bag. There’s gelling powder that hardens the poo, neutralizes odors, and kills pathogens. Keep in mind that most people poop about once a day, so plan accordingly (and have a few extras) for your trip.

Pick A Position

Here are some common strategies for squatting and successfully depositing:

THE SQUAT – Place your feet apart to find a good balance, pull your pants down to your knees, and obtain a bottom-out low squat position. Use a hand to pull your pants forward to keep them out of the line of fire.

THE THRONE – Look for a tree on a slight hill and go to the uphill-facing side so that everything runs away from you. Plant your feet firmly, press your back against a tree (your thighs should be exactly parallel to the ground).

THE TRIPOD – Find a tree with a fairly slender yet sturdy trunk. Grab hold, grip it tightly, and lean back into a squat. Your feet should be near the base of the tree.

THE ASSIST – Look for a fallen log or a tree stump; you can basically sit down on it. Scoot back over it, hang your rear off it as far as you can without falling off, and go for it.

Toilet Paper and Clean Up

When it comes to truly leaving no trace, toilet paper should be packed out. However, there are a few other options out there that we will dig into.

PACK IT OUT

We like having a dedicated resealable Ziploc bag for our used TP. Just fold it in a way that doesn’t smear your doo doo, or use a couple of squares to encapsulate your used toilet paper. Otherwise, the bag will get nasty and stinky.

BURN IT

While this was a generally accepted form of LNT, it’s no longer recommended because humans are…not the most trustworthy when it comes to fire (this failed TP burn caused 27,000 acres to go up in flames).

If you go with the burn technique, just be 100% certain you don’t set the woods on fire or violate fire restrictions. TP is super lightweight, and its ashes tend to get airborne. Treat it like a campfire. Remove any fuel sources aside from the TP, have water on hand, and once you are done, pour water on the ashes to ensure it is completely extinguished. Also, try to make sure it’s protected from the wind. It’s best to scrape away leaves/needles and other tinder, and light it on soil/rock, and have a stick or rock to hold it down.

Finally, don’t cover it. Fires can smolder under sand, peat, and dirt. Roots can ignite underground, so don’t cover the ashes. We like to wash our hands over the ashes.

BIDET

If you’re a pooper who finds toilet paper barbaric, enter Happy Bottom’s Portable Bidet. It weighs 2.8 ounces and gets the job done. Read the reviews, people are hyped!

NATURE’S TP

When used correctly, natural toilet paper (leaves, smooth rocks, snow, etc.) is just as sanitary as toilet paper. Is it the best option environmentally? That depends on which expert or land manager you ask. It’s a skill to figure out the right shapes, sizes, and textures. And you need to collect it before you rush to dig your cathole because sometimes, what’s in arm’s reach is a bit prickly. The biggest issue with natural materials is the risk of contaminating your hands. It can be difficult to clean and remove, especially without easy access to hot water and soap.

DON’T FORGET SOAP/WATER or SANITIZER

Whatever you do, don’t forget to clean your hands thoroughly after you finish up. Hand sanitizer is an essential tool for any backcountry trip and should be used often.

For those lucky enough to be bleeding during a camping/backpacking trip, pack out used products and dispose of the contents from your menstrual cup the same as urine.

Conclusion

You love the outdoors. That’s why you’re out there, and probably why you’re reading this post. So please help keep our wilderness areas pristine for years to come. Improperly buried human waste is not only extremely gross, but it’s also one of the biggest pollution problems our wild places are facing.

So please, always backpack with a sturdy trowel, dig deep catholes, use biodegradable toilet paper, and either bury your TP thoroughly, or pack it out and throw it away. If we all do our part, we can help keep our parks beautiful for generations to come.

Heading toward the southeast corner of Oregon, a panorama of raw wilderness stretches across the horizon, beckoning solitude seekers. The Steens Mountain monolith runs nearly 60 miles from northeast to southwest and 18 miles across, with its summit at nearly 9,733 feet. Massive U-shaped gorges run almost a half-mile deep on the western side of the Steens. On the east side, you’re treated to views of a near-vertical 5,500-foot drop to the expansive Alvord Desert, which offers 30 miles of alkaline playa. It’s a landscape unlike any other and worth the drive.

Hiking options range from high desert washes to subalpine meadows and lush green canyons. In this guide, we’ll help you plan your next unforgettable adventure into one of Oregon’s best-kept secrets.

Quick Facts

• Distance: Varies, depending on itinerary
• Days Needed: 2-5 days
• Peak Elevation: 9,738 feet (2,968m)
• Best Travel Time: July through early October
• Permits: None
• Difficulty: Easy to Difficult

Highlights

• Stunning vistas from the multitude of ridgelines and summits
• Variable terrain from high desert to alkaline playa
• Decent Solitude
• Dogs permitted
• Hot springs
• Decent wildlife sightings
• Wildflowers in summer
• The most scenic drive on the Steens Mtn Loop Road

Lowlights

• Can be susceptible to quickly changing weather
• Challenging terrain – deep canyons and rocky slopes
• It’s a long drive from everywhere
• Ticks, mosquitoes, and rattlesnakes
• Limited water sources
• Remote, rough roads

Best Time to Travel

July through September (sometimes as late as October) is the best time to hike the Steens. During the summer months, temperatures can reach into the 90s during the day and drop down into the 50s at night.

While snow conditions vary yearly, snow usually melts on trail elevations below 7,000 feet by mid-June. Depending on the year, higher elevation trails are clear by the third week in July. Contact the BLM (541-573-4400) before making the trip. They are especially helpful for real-time updates on trail, water, and road conditions.

At higher elevations, the weather is susceptible to rapid temperature changes. Blustery, 100-degree days are common, and snow can fall year-round. Be prepared for sudden lightning storms, snow, rain, and high winds. Before heading out, check the local forecast for up-to-date conditions.

Difficulty

We rate these hikes as moderate to difficult. Depending on your itinerary, some terrain can be off-trail, very steep, and involve sketchy scrambles. Also, depending on the time of year and snowpack, some rivers may involve dangerous fords. However, if you stick to the main trails, the hiking can be gentle and relatively easy. The remote nature of these trails also adds to the rating variance. Cell phone service cannot be relied on for emergency communication. 

As always, difficulty ratings depend on your experience, physical fitness, pack weight, and weather conditions. Although not a technically demanding hike (unless you’re completing the Gorges loop), carefully plan your campsites and water sources. We’ve got you covered with articles, gear guides, and tutorials to help you brush up on your skills and dial in your gear. Doing so can be the difference between a miserable trek and a fantastic one. 

Also, keep in mind that high clearance or 4×4 vehicles are needed for primitive roads, including the steep and rocky portion of the Steens Mountain Loop Road near South Steens Campground. 

Steens Mountain Loop Road

The Steens Mountain Loop Road—the highest road in the state—traverses from the hamlet of Frenchglen to the west side of the range for 52 miles through some of the region’s best scenery. It offers views of Fish Lake, the Kiger Gorge, and the Steens Mountain Summit and access to highland trails. It’s an amazingly scenic drive that is a worthy part of any trip to the Steens. 

The Steens Mountain Loop Road also provides access to four designated campgrounds, Steens Summit and Wildhorse Lake Trailheads, and the Riddle Brothers Ranch National Historic District.

Route Options

There are many hiking and backpacking options in the Steens, ranging from day hikes to multi-day challenging off-trail adventures. Below, we’ll highlight some of the best the Steens has to offer. 

Little Blitzen Gorge

This is an excellent place to access one of the Steen’s iconic gorges. The trailhead leaves from the South Steens Campground. Many complete this trail as a one-night backpacking trip or long day hike. 

• Distance: 18.6 miles (roundtrip, out and back)
• Trailhead: South Steens Campground
• Elevation: High point: 7,883 feet/Low Point: 5, 332 feet
• Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Route: Access the trail from the Steens Mountain Loop Road. About a half-mile descent from the trailhead, you cross the Little Blitzen River. This is a challenge after a high snowpack year, but it also has great swimming holes to enjoy during summer. Continue hiking under 2,000-foot walls along the course of the river. Toward the end, near a rimrock knoll, the trail forks. The main trail follows a path to a view of a waterfall cascading in the upper end of the gorge. If you go to the left, you face a steep scramble up to the Steens Mountain Loop Road above.

Campsites: 4 miles in, the trail opens up to a plateau and cottonwood grove shading a meadow. Look for campsites in this area. 

Directions: From Burns, take State Highway 78 southeast for approximately 2 miles. Turn right onto State Highway 205 and travel south for 60 miles toward Frenchglen. Go another 9 miles and turn left on the Steens Mountain Loop Road south entrance. The trailhead is found in the South Steens Campground. Park on the right in the area marked as Little Blitzen Trailhead. The official trail begins just up the road. 

Big Indian Gorge

Arguably one of the most fascinating and beautiful of the accessible gorges in the Steens, it also requires trekking along a dirt road for the first couple of miles. 

• Distance: 16 miles (roundtrip, out and back)
• Trailhead: South Steens Campground
• Elevation: High point 8,500 feet, low point 5,300 feet
• Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Route: Once you get beyond the end of the dirt road, you’ll trek through a riparian zone, meadows, and streams (3 crossings, all of which can be dangerous at certain times of the year), before hitting a plateau that butts up against a massive U-shaped gorge pocked with sagebrush, juniper and aspen trees.

Campsites: About 6.5 miles (and 6,500 feet) in, you’ll enter a grove of cottonwoods where you’ll find a couple of good sites. At 8 miles (turnaround point), the sites are uneven at best. There’s also a big headwall to contend with there. That’s your turnaround point if you’re doing an out-and-back.

Directions: From Burns, take State Highway 78 southeast for approximately 2 miles. Turn right onto State Highway 205 and travel south for 60 miles toward Frenchglen. Go another 9 miles and turn left on the Steens Mountain Loop Road south entrance. The trailhead is found in the South Steens Campground. Park on the right in the area marked as Little Blitzen Trailhead. The official trail begins just up the road. 

Wildhorse Lake & Steens Summit

Cradled in the bottom of a picturesque wildflower-speckled cirque, this beautiful lake is surrounded by a tapestry of wildflowers and a towering wall with a view overlooking the Alvord Desert, one vertical mile below.

• Distance: 2.6 miles (roundtrip) for Wildhorse/ 1.5 miles roundtrip for Steens Summit
• Trailhead: Steens Summit Trailhead
• Elevation: High Point 9,734 feet (2,869m); Low Point 8,432 ft (2,560m)
• Difficulty: Moderate

Route:  The serpentine trail leading to this bowl is located just below Steens Mountain’s 9,734-foot summit at the trailhead. From here, you can begin the 1.3-mile and 1,200-foot descent to Wildhorse Lake. Camping is possible at Wildhorse Lake, but we recommend using only designated campsites. Before or after your trip to Wildhorse Lake, we recommend completing the short and relatively easy 1.5-mile roundtrip hike to the top of Steens Mountain. Although various towers and other manmade objects detract from the summit, the views over the Alvord Desert are stunning and worthwhile. 

Campsites: There are several campsites near Wildhorse Lake, but please follow Leave No Trace guidelines when choosing a site in this fragile environment. Camp in designated, existing sites that are on durable surfaces, such as rock, sand, dry grass, or compacted dirt. Also, you want to make sure that you are 200 feet from water and trails. There is no camping at the Steens Summit.

Directions: From Frenchglen, take the Steens Mountain Loop Road and head 22 miles up the mountain to a junction with a sign for Steens Summit/Wildhorse Lake. Go left and follow the primitive road two miles to the road summit parking area.

Pike Creek Canyon

You’ll need to head over to the other side of the Steens to the Alvord Desert to enjoy one of the best hikes in the Steens. Remote, narrow, rocky, and steep, it’s a fantastic trail that is accessible earlier in the season than the other trails due to its elevation. Its colorful rock outcroppings—pink, red, orange, and dark blue— and dark spires dominate a rich riparian corridor. A perennial stream bordered by alder, cottonwood, and willow runs through it. The views back toward the Alvord’s alkaline playa are spectacular. Watch for Big Horns! 

• DIstance: 5.4 (roundtrip, out to Pike’s Knob and back)
• Trailhead: Pike Creek Trail
• Elevation: High Point. 5,480 feet (1,670m); Low Point, 4,320 feet (1,316m)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Permit/Fee Required: Before heading out, drive 2.0 miles south on the East Steens Road to the Alvord Hot Springs to purchase a parking and/or camping permit. Since 2016, Alvord Ranch has charged $5 per day to park and $30 per night to camp near the trailhead.

Route: Once at the trailhead, you’ll need to bushwhack across the creek to find an old mining road running up the southern bank is required. Follow the single-track trail from here up into the canyon for about 1 mile. You’ll pass a wilderness sign-in box in the first quarter mile. After that it crosses to the left of Pike Creek and enters a “crack” in the mountain.

Directions: From Burns, drive east on Highway 78 for 65 miles past the town of Crane. Turn right at mile marker 65 onto East Steens Road, which has sections of both pavement and gravel, for 38.5 miles to an unmarked road on the right that can be identified by a yellow cattle guard. The road is roughly 3.7 miles past the Alvord Ranch. 

Steens Mountain Gorges Loop

• Distance: 28 miles
• Days Needed: 2-4
• Trailhead: Steens Summit Trailhead
• Elevation: High point 9,434 feet, low point 5,300 feet
• Difficulty: Very Strenuous

Route: If you want to see the best of what the Steens area has to offer and are up for an experts-only backcountry adventure, then the Gorges Loop may be a good option. The loop “trail” connects the Big Indian and Little Blitzen Gorges, but requires an off-trail ascent and eventual descent of the 2,000-foot headwalls of each gorge. Most of your travel will be improvised and require off-trail navigation. The headwalls are incredibly steep and, at times, require four points of contact to navigate. We do not recommend this trip to inexperienced backpackers as it can be potentially dangerous. 

If you’re completing this loop, we recommend beginning at the Big Indian Trailhead and continuing up the gorge, passing seasonal streams along the way. The trail will begin petering out and will require bushwacking as you make your way to the headwall of the gorge. At this point, you’ll want to scout your route up the headwall, exercising extreme caution. After your make your way up out of the gorge, you’ll traverse a high ridge until you reach the Steens Summit Trailhead, which will offer the option to add worthy side trips to Wildhorse Lake and the Steens Summit. After this, you’ll follow the Steens Mountain Road for a couple miles until you reach the Little Blitzen Gorge. At this time, you’ll begin off-trail navigation again as you scout a scrambling route down into the gorge. After you’ve made your way safely down into the gorge, you’ll eventually meet up with the trail and hike out to the Little Blitzen Trailhead, where your car will be waiting for you. 

Directions: From Burns, take State Highway 78 southeast for approximately 2 miles. Turn right onto State Highway 205 and travel south for 60 miles toward Frenchglen. Go another 9 miles and turn left on the Steens Mountain Loop Road south entrance. The trailhead is found in the South Steens Campground. Park on the right in the area marked as Little Blitzen Trailhead. The official trail begins just up the road. Here are the Google directions. 

Campsites

Campsites in the backcountry are first-come, first-serve. Please follow Leave No Trace guidelines when choosing a site in this fragile environment. Camp in designated, pre-used sites on durable surfaces, such as rock, sand, dry grass, or compacted dirt. Also, you want to ensure you are 200 feet from water and trails.

Below is a map provided by the BLM showing organized campgrounds and the route of the Steens Mountain Loop Road with trailheads. Camping fees are $6 per vehicle, per night, and campsites are available on a first come, first serve basis.

Maps & Guidebooks

• US Forest Service Steens High Desert Forest Map – This map is great for navigating the Steens, but doesn’t provide the level of detail off-trail hikers may want. You can buy online or pick one up at
• the Burns District BLM office.
• Backpacking Oregon – This book provides a great step-by-step guide to backpacking around the Steens – especially the Steens Mountain Gorges Loop. It also highlights many other fantastic trips around Oregon.
• 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Eastern Oregon – This is hands-down the best book on the Steens (although it covers some 90 other trails). The author provides first-person experience along with detailed driving and hiking directions, maps and illustrations.
• Gaia GPS – We use Gaia GPS on all our backpacking trips to assist with planning our route and on-trail navigation.
• USGS Topo Map Quad: Wildhorse Lake. Print a free topo map of the Steens Mountain at Topozone.

Permits & Regulations

The Steens Mountain Wilderness is part of the 110 million-acre National Wilderness Preservation System, designed to provide clean air, water, and habitat critical for rare and endangered plants and animals. 

The Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Area contains a mixture of public and private lands and specially designated areas where special regulations apply. Do not attempt to go around road closure signs; stay on designated open routes; driving off-road is prohibited. Respect ranchers and landowners in the area and always get permission to go onto private property. Contact Burns District BLM for more information.

Permits are not required. Fees are applied at organized campgrounds and Pike Creek Trailhead (see information under Pike Creek).

Water

Limited water sources require carrying enough water to last your entire trip in certain areas at certain times. Check with the BLM before you head out. Conditions and water availability are usually weather-dependent here. Some trails have streams or lakes you can collect water from, but by midsummer, many have dried up. 

Avoid drinking unfiltered/unpurified water from untested sources in the Steens. Filtering your water, whether from streams, rivers, seeps, or lakes. Check out our list of the best backpacking water filters for our top recommendations.

Critters & Food Storage

There are no specific food storage requirements in the Steens. That said, you should always protect your food against rodents and small critters, which will tear through your backpack or tent without hesitation. We recommend packaging all your food and scented products in a food storage container such as an Ursack. 

Bugs

Mosquitoes are present along this route in early summer but dissapate later in the season as standing water becomes more limited. Hiking later in the season is often bug-free. For full coverage, use a combination of Permethrin on your clothing and bring a small bottle of DEET or Picaridin for exposed skin. 

Gear List

Make sure to check out our Ultimate Backpacking Checklist, so you don’t forget something important.

Below you’ll find our current favorite backpacking gear. If you want to see additional options, our curated gear guides are the result of many years of extensive research and hands-on testing by our team of outdoor experts.

BACKPACK

• Best Backpacking Pack Overall: Gregory Paragon 58 – Men’s / Gregory Maven 58 – Women’s
• Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound 40
• More: Check out our best backpacking backpacks guide for ultralight and trekking options

TENT

• Best Backpacking Tent Overall: Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2
• Best Ultralight Tent: Zpacks Duplex
• Best Budget Tent: REI Half Dome 2
• Best Tent Stakes Overall: All One Tech Aluminum Stakes
• More: Check out our best backpacking tents guide for more options

SLEEPING BAG/QUILT

• Best Sleeping Bag Overall: Men’s Feathered Friends Swallow YF 20 / Women’s Feathered Friends Egret YF 20
• Best Quilt Overall: Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping bags guide and best backpacking quilts guide for more options

SLEEPING PAD

• Best Sleeping Pad Overall: NEMO Tensor All-Season
• Best Foam Sleeping Pad: NEMO Switchback
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping pads guide for ultralight and trekking options

CAMP KITCHEN

• Best Backpacking Stove Overall: MSR PocketRocket 2
• Best Backpacking Cookware Overall: TOAKS Titanium 750ml
• Best Backpacking Coffee Overall: Starbucks VIA
• More: Check out our best backpacking stoves guide and best backpacking cookware guide for ultralight and large group options

WATER & FILTRATION

• Best Water Filter Overall: Sawyer Squeeze
• Best Hydration Bladder Overall: Gregory 3D Hydro
• Best Backpacking Water Bottles: Smartwater Bottles
• More: Check out our best backpacking water filters guide and best backpacking water bottles guide for ultralight and large group options

CLOTHING

• Best Hiking Pants Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi / Women’s The North Face Aphrodite 2.0
• Best Hiking Shorts Overall: Men’s Patagonia Quandary / Women’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi
• Best Women’s Hiking Leggings: Fjallraven Abisko Trekking Tights HD
• Best Rain Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Rain Pants: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Down Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie / Women’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie
• Best Fleece Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Better Sweater / Women’s Patagonia Better Sweater
• Best Sunshirt Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Echo / Women’s Outdoor Research Echo
• Best Socks Overall: Men’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew / Women’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew
• Beste Ultralight Liner Glove: Patagonia Capilene Midweight Liner
• More: Check out our best backpacking apparel lists for more options

FOOTWEAR & TRACTION

• Best Hiking Shoes Overall: Men’s HOKA Speedgoat 6 / Women’s HOKA Speedgoat 6
• Best Hiking Boots Overall: Men’s Salomon X Ultra 5 GTX / Women’s Lowa Renegade Evo GTX
• Best Hiking Sandals Overall: Men’s Chaco Z/1 Classic / Women’s Chaco Z/1 Classic
• Best Camp Shoes Overall: Crocs Classic Clogs
• Best Traction Device for Hiking Overall: Kahtoola MICROspikes
• More: Check out our best backpacking footwear lists for more options

NAVIGATION

• Best GPS Watch Overall: Garmin Instinct 2 Solar
• Best Personal Locator Beacon (PLB): Garmin inReach Mini 2
• More: Check out our article How to Use Your Phone as a GPS Device for Backpacking & Hiking to learn more

FOOD

• Best Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Meals
• Best Vegan and Vegetarian Backpacking Meals
• Best Energy Bars
• Best Backpacking Meal Recipes

FIRST-AID & TOOLS

• Best First-Aid Kit Overall: Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .7
• Best Pocket Knife Overall: Kershaw Leek
• Best Multitool Overall: Leatherman Wave+
• Best Headlamp Overall: Black Diamond Spot 400-R
• Best Power Bank Overall: Nitecore NB 10000 Gen 3
• More: Check out our best first-aid kit guide, best pocket knife guide, best multitool guide, best backpacking headlamps guide, and best power banks guide for more options

MISCELLANEOUS

• Best Trekking Poles Overall: Black Diamond Pursuit
• Best Backpacking Chair Overall: REI Flexlite Air
• Best Backpacking Stuff Sack Overall: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Drawstring
• More: Check out our best trekking poles guide, best backpacking chairs guide, and best stuff sacks guide for more options