Backpacking the San Juan Mountains in Southern Colorado is a special experience. This trip guide outlines a 60-mile backpacking loop through the Central San Juans via Vallecito Reservoir – a route that’s remote, physically demanding, and packed with beauty.

The Vallecito Reservoir Loop (for lack of a better name) links some of the most spectacular alpine lakes, high passes, and remote ridgelines in the San Juan National Forest. The loop begins on the east side of Vallecito Reservoir, climbs up the Pine River drainage past Emerald Lake, winds deep into the Weminuche Wilderness, and eventually circles back along Columbine Pass, Silver Mesa, and Endlich Mesa before dropping back down to the reservoir.

We hiked this loop in mid-September over four days and three nights, covering about 65 miles and 14,000 feet of elevation gain. That’s a lot of ground in a short amount of time—most backpackers will want to take longer—but the reward was enormous. We found pristine alpine lakes, sweeping mountain vistas, clear running water, and very few people. Outside of a few hunters, we had long stretches of complete solitude.

Trails are generally well-graded and maintained, but there are exceptions. A stretch of Silver Mesa after Trimble Pass requires cairn-to-cairn navigation. And the descent from Miller Mountain on the Endlich Mesa Trail is faint, overgrown, and riddled with blowdowns—you’ll need patience and solid navigation skills to get through. A GPS track is absolutely essential here. (We provide one below to download.)

For experienced backpackers looking for a challenging route with big payoffs, this loop delivers. Thru-hikers on the Continental Divide Trail often rank this stretch as a highlight of the entire trail. After hiking it, we can see why. For us, it was the perfect mix of pushing hard, reconnecting with close friends, and soaking up some of the most dramatic wilderness Colorado has to offer.

Quick Facts

• Location: San Juan National Forest/Weminuche Wilderness near Durango, CO
• Trailheads: Start at Pine River Trailhead, end near Vallecito Lake Event Center. Shuttle or vehicle shuttle required.
• Distance: 55-65 miles (with alternate loop and out-and-back options of varying lengths – see Route Options section below)
• Days Needed: 4-7 days
• Best Travel Time: July – Mid-September
• Permits: None
• Campsites: dispersed camping only
• Water sources: Reliable streams and lakes throughout most of the loop, except for a long dry stretch on Endlich Mesa. Water treatment essential — see Water Sources section.
• Dogs: Allowed but must be on leash or under voice control (varies by section)
• Maps/Navigation: Topo Maps+ app (iOS), Gaia GPS (Android/iOS), and Caltopo Weminuche Wilderness Map. A full GPS track download is highly recommended.
• Google Map Link: Google Map Overview
• Difficulty: Very strenuous

Highlights

• Gorgeous alpine lakes (Emerald, Rock, Moon, Twin, Ute, etc.)
• Expansive high mountain views across rugged terrain
• Strong variety of scenery — from lush river valleys to alpine passes to airy mesas
• Wildlife viewing (elk, deer, bald eagles, black bears, foxes, mountain lions, etc.)
• Excellent solitude later in the season (September and beyond)
• Beautiful wildflowers in July and August
• Brilliant fall colors around Vallecito Reservoir and in higher meadows (late September/early October)
• Generally well-graded trails that make big climbs more manageable
• Clean, clear mountain water along most of the route
• Remote feel with few access points once deep in the loop
• Lots of trail connections and alternate options (including the Continental Divide Trail and Vallecito Creek Trail)

Lowlights

• Very strenuous mileage and elevation gain (depending on route choice)
• Overgrown, faint, and blowdown-heavy trail south of Miller Mountain on the Endlich Mesa route
• A few unmarked trail junctions can cause missed turns without GPS
• Long dry stretch after City Reservoir across Endlich Mesa — must carry water
• Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August (lightning, hail, heavy rain)
• High-altitude challenges: headaches, restless sleep, and altitude sickness are possible for those not acclimated
• Exposure above treeline leaves hikers vulnerable to storms and sun
• Campsites not abundant in alpine areas — planning ahead is important
• Very remote — rescues and bailouts are difficult; carrying a Garmin inReach Mini or similar satellite device is recommended

Best Time to Travel

The best time to backpack the Vallecito Reservoir loop is mid-July through mid-September, once high snow has melted. Snowpack timing varies year to year, and some seasons may allow earlier trips.

• Wildflowers: Peak bloom July to early August
• Monsoon season: Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August — start early and plan to be off high passes by early afternoon.
• Fall trips: Early September can be excellent, with solitude and nice fall colors. However, early-season snowstorms and below-freezing nights are common later in the month.

Always check the NOAA forecast before your trip.

DIFFICULTY

We’d rate this loop as very strenuous. The full circuit is long, steep, and remote, with sustained climbs and high-elevation travel that will push even experienced hikers.

We hiked the loop in 4 days and 3 nights, averaging about 16.5 miles and 3,500 feet of elevation gain per day. That pace is only realistic for expert backpackers with lightweight packs, strong fitness, and lots of backcountry experience.

Most hikers will want to take 5–7 days for this loop. This drops the daily mileage into a more manageable range and allows extra time for taking breaks, exploring side trails, and soaking up the views. Even at a slower pace, expect big climbs and full days on the trail.

This loop is not well-suited for beginners. Altitude, weather, and remoteness all add to the challenge. This trip requires a high level of preparation to complete safely.

PERMITS, FEE, REGULATIONS

Permits: None required.

Fees: None for parking or camping.

Campfires: Allowed when we hiked, but seasonal bans are common due to drought.

Group size: 15 maximum (Weminuche Wilderness)

Food storage: Black bears are common in this area. Each member of our group carried an Ursack. Bear hangs are possible but not as effective, and they take a lot more time. See our bear bagging tutorial.

TRAILHEADS & ACCESS

• Start: Pine River Trailhead, east side of Vallecito Reservoir. Dirt road in decent condition — no clearance issues.
• End: Freeman Creek Trail to Highway 501 near the Vallecito Event Center. Not a formal trailhead; confirm permission to park.
• Other trailheads: Vallecito Creek TH is a larger, well-traveled alternative.
• Shuttle:  Required — we arranged a local ride by calling around.

WATER SOURCES

Water is generally abundant throughout the loop with frequent streams and lakes.

Exception: Endlich Mesa. After climbing above City Reservoir to the saddle, there are no reliable sources for around 15 miles. Plan to carry extra water for this stretch.

Treatment methods:

• We used chlorine dioxide tablets (simple, quick, foolproof, lightweight).
• The rest of our crew used a Sawyer Squeeze and Platypus Gravity Filter. The Platypus saw the most use.

Recommended capacity: 2–3 liters most of the time – maybe more for Endlich Mesa, depending on your timeline. See our Best Water Filters & Purifiers Guide for more info.

Note: After City Reservoir, water is scarce until the end of the loop. Camping after this point will require extra water for a dry camp.

CAMPSItES & ITINERARY

Campsites are dispersed only. Use established sites when possible. Options are decent near lakes and creeks but can be sparse above treeline.

Our itinerary (4 days / 3 nights):

• Night 1: Moon Lake
• Night 2: Junction of Rock Creek & Vallecito Creek Trails
• Night 3: City Reservoir

Other potential camping locations:

• Little Emerald Lake / Emerald Lake
• Rock Lake
• Twin Lakes
• West Ute Lake
• Nebo Creek Trail / Vallecito Creek Trail Junction
• Johnson Creek Trail / Vallecito Creek Trail Junction
• Valley halfway up the Columbine Pass Climb
• Lake Marie
• Along Endlich Mesa Trail (Dry)

ROUTE Options

• Full Loop (our trip): Pine River → Emerald Lake → Moon Lake → Rock Lake → CDT past Twin Lakes & West Ute Lake → Nebo Creek → Vallecito Creek → Johnson Creek → Columbine Pass → Trimble Pass → City Reservoir → Endlich Mesa → Freeman Creek → Vallecito Reservoir. (~65 miles, ~14,000 ft gain)
  
• Rock Creek Cutoff Trail: Shaves off 9–10 miles and about 2,500 feet of elevation gain by bypassing the Twin Lakes / CDT section of this loop.
  
• Pine River–Flint Lakes Loop: A shorter option from Pine River Trailhead up the Flint Creek Trail, past Flint Lakes, Rock Lake, Moon Lake, and Emerald Lake before looping back down Pine River.
  
• Pine River Out-and-Back: A simpler trip up the Pine River drainage to Emerald and Moon Lakes, then back down the same way.
  
• No Columbine Pass / Endlich Mesa: End the loop at the Vallecito Creek Trailhead instead of continuing over Columbine Pass, Trimble Pass, and Endlich Mesa. This eliminates the overgrown, hard-to-follow Endlich Mesa descent and simplifies logistics, but you’ll also miss some beautiful high-country scenery.
  
• Vallecito Creek Out-and-Back: Out-and-back trips along the Vallecito Creek Trail are popular. You can also connect with the Rock Creek Trail and the CDT to make a shorter loop near the end of the valley.
  

Other Options: This area has a large and well-connected trail system. With some planning, a reliable GPS track, and a good map, it’s easy to create custom loops or out-and-backs that fit your timeframe, fitness level, and goals.

• Download: Full GPX track for this loop.
  
• Apps: Topo Maps+ (iOS), Gaia GPS (iOS/Android). We used Topo Maps+ for this route, and it worked well. Once you learn how to use it, there are many helpful features.
  
• Custom map: Build a map using Caltopo and print it for use on the trail.
  
• Backups: Everyone in our group downloaded GPS maps for offline use as a redundancy and for emergencies.
  
• Paper map: NatGeo Weminuche Wilderness, Weminuche Wilderness West / East
  
• Guide: How to Use Your Phone as a GPS Device
  

WILDLIFE, BUGS, & HAZARDS

Wildlife: Elk, deer, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, black bears, bald eagles, etc.

Bugs: Expect mosquitoes at lower elevations and near standing water in July and August. We experienced few in September.

Hazards: Afternoon thunderstorms (lightning, hail, heavy rain), exposure above treeline, high altitude/risk of altitude sickness (see our Altitude Safety video).

Trail challenges: Silver Mesa cairn navigation, Endlich Mesa overgrowth/blowdowns, a few steep drop-offs.

Safety: Carrying a Garmin inReach Mini or similar device is recommended.

LEAVE NO TRACE

The Weminuche Wilderness is rugged and fragile. Please help protect it by following Leave No Trace principles:

• Camp in established, impacted sites.
• Pack out all trash; dig catholes 200 feet from water.
• Treat all water and keep soaps, food waste, and suds out of streams and lakes.
• Store food securely — black bears and small critters are common.
• Check fire restrictions; use a stove when possible.
• Leave rocks, plants, and other natural features as you found them.
  

Please travel thoughtfully so this wild place stays pristine for the next visitor.

CONCLUDING THOUGHTS

The Vallecito Reservoir Loop in the Central San Juans is a big, burly adventure in one of Colorado’s most spectacular wilderness areas. With big climbs, high passes, and stunning alpine lakes, it delivers a true backcountry adventure for hikers who are up for the challenge.

This isn’t a beginner-friendly route. However, for experienced backpackers who don’t mind long miles and remote terrain, it offers solitude, beauty, and a sense of accomplishment that few trails can match. With a flexible network of connecting trails, it’s also an area where you can adjust mileage and difficulty to fit your goals.

If you’re looking for a strenuous, scenic trip deep in the San Juans, the Vallecito Reservoir loop deserves a spot on your list.

The Big Needles Loop encapsulates everything that makes The Needles District in Canyonlands National Park a must-visit destination. The district is famous for the colorful Cedar Mesa Sandstone pinnacles that punctuate the landscape and a predominance of slickrock trails. 

One of many loops that can be put together linking shorter trails in The Needles, the Big Needles Loop traverses the best Canyonlands has to offer. The Trail takes in Peekaboo Creek, Upper Lost Canyon, Elephant Canyon, Druid Arch, Chesler Park Overlook andthe Joint Trail (which requires shimming through shoulder-width cracks in rock walls and boulders). In addition, there are several side trips you can take to add variety and distance to your trip, including the Salt River Canyon arches, the Devil’s Kitchen and the Confluence Overlook. The only limiting factor is the amount of water you can carry, particularly if you travel during peak season when water sources are scarce.

The Big Needles Loop can be tackled in either direction, but our trip follows a clockwise route through Upper Lost Canyon. You can also customize your route by starting at other trailheads or adding on side trips. This description covers the three-night/four-day option.

Quick Facts

• Distance: 23.7 miles roundtrip
• Days Needed: 3-5 days
• Peak Elevation: 5,584 ft/1,782m
• Best Travel Time: April-May, End of September through November 
• Permits: Required (see below)
• Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Highlights

• Multi-hued sandstone spires, fins, pillars and knobs, eroded by wind and water into phantasmic shapes
• Slot narrows, ladders and slickrock
• Wildlife: desert cottontails and black-tailed jackrabbits, kangaroo rats, antelope squirrels, lizards, snakes, hawks, and eagles
• Solitude during off-peak season
• Spectacular sunsets

Lowlights

Best Time to hike

The best time to hike the Big Needles Loop is April-May or September to November. April and May temps highs range from 60 to 80 degrees and lows from 30 to 50 degrees, making it a very pleasant time to backpack. End of September through October bring day and evening temperatures similar to spring. Canyonlands is a located in a high desert, which means temperatures can swing 40 degrees in a single day. Check the weather report, bring layers and plan your trip in advance.

July-September temps reach over 100 degrees and late summer monsoons bring the threat of flash floods. Even rainfall in other areas can cause floods 50 miles downriver in side canyons, so be alert to weather changes during monsoon season.

Although it rarely snows in Canyonlands, winter temps rarely top 50 when the sun’s out and often slide below zero on winter nights. Even light snowfalls can make many trails super slippery and impassable, so be aware of impending weather.

Check in at The Needles District Visitors Center, or call them at 435 259-4711, before beginning your trip, or check the National Weather Service.

Difficulty

We rate most backpacking trips in this area as moderate to difficult due to many steep ascents, scarcity of water, and uneven trail conditions. Trails traverse a mix of slickrock benches and sandy washes; many of the more extensive trails rough and steep with plenty of exposure, including drop-offs, narrow spots, or ladders. Many trails are marked with cairns (small rock piles) rather than trail markers (major intersections are signed). Net elevation change is only several hundred feet or less, except for the Lower Red Lake Trail, which drops 1,400 feet to the Colorado River.

Although The Big Needles trails are not technically demanding, you should be prepared to climb ladders, descend steep rocky trails, and use some navigation skills. To prepare for this trip you’ll want to train properly, know your limitations, brush up on your skills, and dial in your gear. Doing so will make for a more safe and enjoyable adventure.

First Come First Serve Walk-Ins

If you didn’t secure a permit months out, you have another option. Unreserved dates and campsites may be available on a first-come, first-served basis at the visitor center, but it’s a gamble. If permits are available, you can try to get one up to the day before and the day of your desired trip date start. These are available up to one hour before the close of business each day, seven days a week at visitor centers.

Getting to Canyonlands National Park

Flying

Depending on where you’re coming from, there are two airports near Canyonlands National Park:

• GRAND JUNCTION REGIONAL AIRPORT: Flights from Salt Lake City, Denver, Phoenix and Dallas. A 4-hour drive to The Needles.
• SALT LAKE CITY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Major airport with direct flights from many foreign and domestic destinations. A 6-hour drive to The Needles.

Driving

FROM SALT LAKE CITY, UT (244 miles): Take I-15 S toward Las Vegas. Merge onto US-6 E (exit 258) toward US-89 E Price/Manti. Take the US-191 S (exit 182) toward Crescent Junction/Moab. Turn right onto US-191 S to Moab. Drive 40 miles (60 km) south of Moab or 14 miles (22 km) north of Monticello, and take IT 211 roughly 35 miles (56 km) west. UT 211 ends in The Needles, and is the only paved road leading in and out of the area.

FROM LAS VEGAS, NV (467 miles): Take I-15 N toward Salt Lake City. Take exit 132 for I-70 E. Take exit 182 toward Crescent Junction/Moab for US-191 S. Turn right onto US-191 S to Moab. Drive 40 miles (60 km) south of Moab or 14 miles (22 km) north of Monticello, and take IT 211 roughly 35 miles (56 km) west. UT 211 ends in The Needles, and is the only paved road leading in and out of the area.

The Needles visitor center is open daily 8-5pm from early March to late November. The phone number is 435-259-4711 ext. 0. Toilets and water are available year round.

Getting to Squaw Creek Trailhead

The Big Needles Loop starts and ends at Squaw Creek Trailhead and traverses a variety of trails to end back at the same trailhead. It’s a classic loop trail that can be traversed in either direction, however for the sake of this guide, we’ll outline the clockwise route through Upper Lost Canyon.

From Moab, UT and Monticello, UT: Head south on U.S. Highway 191 for roughly 40 miles to Utah Highway 211 (signed for Canyonlands National Park, Needles District) and turn right (west). Follow Utah Hwy 211 west for 37.2 miles and turn left (west), on the road signed for the Squaw Flat Campground, about 2.8 miles beyond the Visitor Center. At the first intersection (0.3 miles) continue on Campground Loop A road for 0.9 miles (Note: Pay attention! It’s easy to mistakenly turn on to Campground Loop B road.the left-hand fork takes you to the trailhead with the shortest access route to the backcountry. The right-hand fork and its respective trailhead are used mostly by campers staying in the campground.) The parking area for the Squaw Flat Trailhead is located on the left (south) side of the road.

From Blanding, UT: Head north on U.S. Highway 191 for roughly 34.8 miles to Utah Highway 211 (signed for Canyonlands National Park, Needles District) and turn left (west). Follow Utah Hwy 211 west for 37.2 miles and turn left (west), on the road signed for the Squaw Flat Campground, about 2.8 miles beyond the Visitor Center. At the first intersection (0.3 miles) continue on Campground Loop A road for 0.9 miles (Note: Pay attention! It’s easy to mistakenly turn on to Campground Loop B road.) The parking area for the Squaw Flat Trailhead is located on the left (south) side of the road.

The Hiking Route

You’ll start your hike at Squaw Creek Trailhead and heading clockwise, you’ll traverse 1.1 miles along relatively easy terrain until you hit the junction with the Peekaboo Trail. Turn left and travel 1.5 miles until you hit the Lost Canyon junction. Take a right to head southwest into the Lost Canyon.

As you head up the Lost Canyon, keep your eyes open for a sign pointing to Squaw Canyon Trail. You’ll eventually hit the trail junction in the Elephant Canyon with the Druid Arch. This is a worthwhile out-and-back trip.

When making the trip to Druid Arch on your way to Chesler Park via the Lost Creek Trail connector, stash your pack. The trail (an extension of Elephant Canyon) is often difficult to follow with no shade and lots of sand to slog through. Instead, when you reach the junction of Chesler Park and Druid Arch trails, tuck your pack away somewhere off-trail near the trails’ junction and the head south on the Elephant Canyon/Druid Arch Trail with a food and water in a day pack.

When you return to the junction where you stashed your pack, take the right fork (southwest) and go another mile to Chesler Park backcountry campsites. The next day, head southwest on the Joint Trail. A short while later a side trail heads left to the Chesler Park Overlook. This junction is a good place to stash your pack again and follow cairns .25 miles to the overlook. From the vantage point of the slickrock ledge you can take in a dramatic view of Chesler Park and the ring of “needle” rock spires that envelop it.

Return to your pack and head into the Joint — a traverse through a deep narrow fissure between rock walls, and the longest slot in the park about .25 miles. After negotiating it you’ll follow the route on a sandy low-traffic 4WD road for about half mile until you see a road on the left coming out of Beef Basin. Go right for another 0.3 mile until you see the Devils Pocket Trail forking to the right (north). After 0.8 mile you’ll meet the Chesler Park Loop Trail junction veering east. Go left here and make a fairly serious climb through a pass through the Big Needles. After the pass the trail drops into the Devil’s Pocket.

In a half mile or so,a side trail takes you to the trail to backcountry campsite DP1. The campsite is about .25 mile further. Another option is to stay on the trail and continue on past Devil’s Kitchen, veering east back toward the Chesler Park loop and onto Elephant Canyon C1. Be careful here – it’s fairly easy to get lost in this confusing area. As you traverse the Big Needle’s Loop, always check your topo map and compass to make sure you don’t have to backtrack to find the official trail.

Below is a map to follow the route listed above, including the backcountry campsites. More on campsite planning below.

Trip Planning

The first thing you’ll want to decide is how many days you’re going to take to complete the loop. It’s important to keep in mind that, depending on the season, you may need to carry all of your water. This may dictate how many days you choose to complete the loop.

Although the daily mileage may seem small on the itineraries listed below, it’s important to note that this terrain and landscape will take you longer to cover than typical trail mileage. That said, you can always adjust your itinerary based on your preference, physical fitness and trail plan. Below are sample itineraries from VisitUtah.com that outlines daily mileage, backcountry campsites, and potential side trips.

Backcountry Campsites

Backpackers in The Needles are required to stay in designated campsites with the exception of lower Salt Creek Canyon. You’ll reserve each campsite online during the permitting process. See the map and trip planning guide above for planning each backcountry campsites.

Nightly camping fee for an individual site is $20. You can reserve some individual sites in spring and fall. Other times of the year, individual sites are first-come, first-served. Sites fill quickly during peak season.

Maps & Guidebooks

Canyonlands National Park – National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map, – This detailed topographical map is printed on foldable, water-resistant paper and provides essential details including trail mileage and trailhead access points for the entire park.

Needles District: Canyonlands – National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map – This map has the same qualities listed above, however covers only the Needles District, offering more in-depth coverage of this section of the park.

Canyonlands National Park Map Pack Bundle – National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map – If you plan on exploring all three districts in Canyonlands – Islands in the Sky, the Maze, and the Needles – this map pack is your best bet.

Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks: A Guide To The Parks’ Greatest Hikes  – This book provides good overview of the Canyonlands and Arches National Parks visual opportunities and essential boots-on-the-ground information. No book singularly covers The Needles District, but this one gives you plenty of trail information to design your own trip.

Water

Water is a scarce resource on the Big Needles Loop. Springs are scattered throughout the park, mostly in canyon bottoms, but many of them marked on topographic maps dry up during summer and even other seasons during periods of drought.

The park service highly recommends backpackers pack in water whenever possible, especially larger groups (4 or more) who will find some springs providing just a trickle at certain times of the year.

If you find yourself backpacking the Big Needles Loop in a time when there are springs available, you’ll need to purify all water collected in the backcountry. A lightweight water filter or chlorine dioxide drops or pills would work as well.

Regulations

• Bury human waste in a shallow hole at least 100 feet from any water supply, so that rain or snow runoff will not carry contaminants into lakes and streams. Body waste decomposes fastest in holes dug 6-8 inches deep.

• Soap (even biodegradable brands) and food particles pollute lakes and streams. Do not wash your dishes, clothes and yourself near the shore of lakes, ponds or streams.
• Wood campfires are not allowed in the backcountry.
• You must pack out all trash, including toilet paper, from the backcountry.
• Store all your food securely to prevent animals from gaining access to it.
• Keep all camping activities within campsite boundaries at designated sites. Camps in at-large zones must be one mile from a road and in low-impact areas like slickrock.
• Camping within 300 feet of an archeological site, historic site, or water source is forbidden.
• All natural objects and cultural artifacts are protected and must be left where they are found. Touching rock art and drawing graffiti is forbidden.
• Pets, discharging firearms, hunting, and feeding wildlife are prohibited.
• Caching food, water, or supplies is allowed with written notification of the district ranger. No damage to resources may occur and all items must be removed.
• Swimming or bathing is only allowed in the Green and Colorado rivers.

Trail Etiquette

The trails in The Needles are constructed and maintained to minimize impact of human use. Please be especially aware of the following:

• Shortcutting switchbacks and cutting across an arid landscape can damage plant life (biological soil crusts, aka biocrusts) and cause soil erosion. Biocrusts are tangled masses of mosses, lichens and cyanobacteria that soak up water like sponges when it rains, slowing down runoff and helping store water for arid plants. Always use trails provided; don’t create new ones.
• Hikers meeting horse parties on the trail should move a considerable distance off the trail and remain quiet and motionless until the horses pass, unless advised otherwise by the riders. Colorful backpacks, curious dogs, clicking trekking poles and any sudden noise or movement may cause a horse to spook, resulting in injury to horses, riders and hikers.

Food Storage

There are no food storage requirements for this area, but we recommend always packing your food in an Ursack to protect your provisions from ‘mini bears” like ravens, mice and small rodents. They can peck or chew into packs and tents left unattended. Follow proper food storage techniques and this shouldn’t be a problem. To learn more about food storage, check out our Food Storage video. 

Bugs

Mosquitoes, cedar gnats, and deer flies all make their presence felt in Canyonlands’ backcountry during wet years, and typically always in the early spring. Use a combination of permethrin on your clothing and a small amount of DEET or the less harsh Picaridin on exposed skin for full protection.

Gear List

Make sure to check out our Ultimate Backpacking Checklist, so you don’t forget something important.

Below you’ll find our current favorite backpacking gear. If you want to see additional options, our curated gear guides are the result of many years of extensive research and hands-on testing by our team of outdoor experts.

BACKPACK

• Best Backpacking Pack Overall: Gregory Paragon 58 – Men’s / Gregory Maven 58 – Women’s
• Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound 40
• More: Check out our best backpacking backpacks guide for ultralight and trekking options

TENT

• Best Backpacking Tent Overall: Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2
• Best Ultralight Tent: Zpacks Duplex
• Best Budget Tent: REI Half Dome 2
• Best Tent Stakes Overall: All One Tech Aluminum Stakes
• More: Check out our best backpacking tents guide for more options

SLEEPING BAG/QUILT

• Best Sleeping Bag Overall: Men’s Feathered Friends Swallow YF 20 / Women’s Feathered Friends Egret YF 20
• Best Quilt Overall: Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping bags guide and best backpacking quilts guide for more options

SLEEPING PAD

• Best Sleeping Pad Overall: NEMO Tensor All-Season
• Best Foam Sleeping Pad: NEMO Switchback
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping pads guide for ultralight and trekking options

CAMP KITCHEN

• Best Backpacking Stove Overall: MSR PocketRocket 2
• Best Backpacking Cookware Overall: TOAKS Titanium 750ml
• Best Backpacking Coffee Overall: Starbucks VIA
• More: Check out our best backpacking stoves guide and best backpacking cookware guide for ultralight and large group options

WATER & FILTRATION

• Best Water Filter Overall: Sawyer Squeeze
• Best Hydration Bladder Overall: Gregory 3D Hydro
• Best Backpacking Water Bottles: Smartwater Bottles
• More: Check out our best backpacking water filters guide and best backpacking water bottles guide for ultralight and large group options

CLOTHING

• Best Hiking Pants Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi / Women’s The North Face Aphrodite 2.0
• Best Hiking Shorts Overall: Men’s Patagonia Quandary / Women’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi
• Best Women’s Hiking Leggings: Fjallraven Abisko Trekking Tights HD
• Best Rain Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Rain Pants: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Down Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie / Women’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie
• Best Fleece Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Better Sweater / Women’s Patagonia Better Sweater
• Best Sunshirt Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Echo / Women’s Outdoor Research Echo
• Best Socks Overall: Men’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew / Women’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew
• Beste Ultralight Liner Glove: Patagonia Capilene Midweight Liner
• More: Check out our best backpacking apparel lists for more options

FOOTWEAR & TRACTION

• Best Hiking Shoes Overall: Men’s HOKA Speedgoat 6 / Women’s HOKA Speedgoat 6
• Best Hiking Boots Overall: Men’s Salomon X Ultra 5 GTX / Women’s Lowa Renegade Evo GTX
• Best Hiking Sandals Overall: Men’s Chaco Z/1 Classic / Women’s Chaco Z/1 Classic
• Best Camp Shoes Overall: Crocs Classic Clogs
• Best Traction Device for Hiking Overall: Kahtoola MICROspikes
• More: Check out our best backpacking footwear lists for more options

NAVIGATION

• Best GPS Watch Overall: Garmin Instinct 2 Solar
• Best Personal Locator Beacon (PLB): Garmin inReach Mini 2
• More: Check out our article How to Use Your Phone as a GPS Device for Backpacking & Hiking to learn more

FOOD

• Best Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Meals
• Best Vegan and Vegetarian Backpacking Meals
• Best Energy Bars
• Best Backpacking Meal Recipes

FIRST-AID & TOOLS

• Best First-Aid Kit Overall: Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .7
• Best Pocket Knife Overall: Kershaw Leek
• Best Multitool Overall: Leatherman Wave+
• Best Headlamp Overall: Black Diamond Spot 400-R
• Best Power Bank Overall: Nitecore NB 10000 Gen 3
• More: Check out our best first-aid kit guide, best pocket knife guide, best multitool guide, best backpacking headlamps guide, and best power banks guide for more options

MISCELLANEOUS

• Best Trekking Poles Overall: Black Diamond Pursuit
• Best Backpacking Chair Overall: REI Flexlite Air
• Best Backpacking Stuff Sack Overall: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Drawstring
• More: Check out our best trekking poles guide, best backpacking chairs guide, and best stuff sacks guide for more options

When it comes to backpacking gear, your nighttime sleep system will be one of the most important decisions you’ll make. You may have heard some buzz about backpacking quilts and want to know what they’re all about. Many backpackers are interested in the flexibility and versatility that a quilt can provide, but are nervous to leave the known reliability and warmth of a sleeping bag.

We’ve used many different models of sleeping bags and quilts over thousands of trail miles and we can attest to the fact that there’s a time and place for both. We wanted to put together this guide to discuss the differences and explain some of the pros and cons of each model to help inform your next gear decision.

For more information on critical considerations and recommendations for our favorite sleeping bags and quilts, check out our lists of the best backpacking sleeping bags and best backpacking quilts.

What’s the Difference Between Sleeping Bags & Quilts?

Sleeping bags are generally fully enclosed systems with a long zipper and a cinchable hood. They’re often mummy-shaped and tight-fitting to create an efficient and warm interior for holding heat. A sleeping bag with a full-length zipper can be opened and draped over your body on warm nights or can be fully zipped and cinched with only a small opening near your mouth on frigid nights.

Backpacking quilts offer more versatility for warmer weather, but not as much warmth on cold trips. There are many different types of quilt designs, but in general, quilts are similar to a down comforter that can be fully opened on warm nights like a blanket, or can be cinched around the footbox and used with pad attachment straps to contain heat on cold nights.

Warmth

There are many different temperature ratings for both sleeping bags and quilts so this measurement varies a bit. In general, sleeping bags tend to be a better choice on cold trips where you’ll want a fully enclosed system with a hood. For us, this tends to be when nighttime temperatures dip to the 30’s and below.

A good question to ask yourself is how often you plan to sleep in temperatures around freezing. If the answer is not often, then a backpacking quilt may be a good choice for you. Quilts are extremely comfortable in summer backpacking conditions and are our number one choice on most of the backpacking trips we take. Think about your down comforter at home and how it just lays on top of you, but still keeps you warm.

A quilt works the same way, as long as you get one that is long and wide enough to fit you. One big downside with quilts are that the bottom is open so they can be drafty in cold and windy conditions. Though some quilts come with pad attachment systems and the option of a closed footbox, the warmth nod still goes to the sleeping bag. 

WINNER: Sleeping Bags

Hood

Almost all sleeping bags come with a hood, which you can pull over your head and cinch down tightly to contain heat on cold nights. Because backpacking quilts don’t have a hood, you’ll need to wear a hat, an after-market down hood, or throw on a down hooded jacket on cold nights to keep your head warm. For side sleepers, you can always pull the quilt up over your head and leave a small opening for breathing.

WINNER: Sleeping Bags

Weight

There are lightweight options for both sleeping bags and quilts, but in general, backpacking quilts tend to have the best warmth-to-weight ratios of any sleeping system on the market. This is because quilts cut out the extra materials and down that normally get compressed underneath your body in sleeping bags. This puts the down fill where you need it most – on top of your body.

This does mean that in a quilt you’ll be sleeping directly on top of your sleeping pad, which can bother some who don’t like the skin-to-sleeping pad feel. We don’t think it’s that big of a deal, but if this bothers you, you can always sleep in full clothing or purchase an additional sheet for your sleeping pad.

If you’re looking for the best possible warmth-to-weight ratios, choose a quilt with a closed footbox. If you’re willing to carry a little bit more weight for increased versatility, choose a quilt with an optional footbox zipper.

There are also quilt models that have full-length zippers, but those tend to be the heaviest of quilt options, and may even rival weights of sleeping bags. In general, sleeping bags tend to be heavier than almost all of these quilt options, but they provide the added warmth of a fully enclosed system.

WINNER: Quilts

Comfort

The most important measurement for sleeping comfort is actually warmth (covered above) because if you’re too cold to sleep, you’re in for a miserable night, no matter what. Once you’ve got warmth covered, comfort will depend on how tight-fitting your sleeping bag is or the flexibility of your quilt.

If you move around a lot at night and dislike constrictive sheets or dislike tight-fitting mummy bags, you may really prefer the comfort of a quilt. Conversely, if you like the security of being wrapped up tight and worry about cold air drafts, you may prefer a sleeping bag.

WINNER: Sleeping Bags and Quilts

Versatility

When we talk about versatility, we’re mostly talking about the different ways each piece of gear can be used. For example, a quilt can be opened fully and used like a blanket (in your tent or around the fire) or cinched up tight when nighttime temperatures drop. To fully enclose the footbox on some quilts, zip up the zipper and pull the drawstring to create a draft-free enclosure. Though cumbersome, many quilts also come with pad attachment systems, which will increase warmth as well.

Sleeping bags, on the other hand, have slightly less versatility due to their closed footboxes, but can also be opened up and used, more or less, like a blanket on warm nights or fully zipped on cold nights. They also have hoods and will be less drafty, providing better warmth in chilly conditions.

On warm nights, we really love the ability to use our quilts fully opened like a down blanket, so we give the versatility nod to quilts. But Sleeping bags are more versatile for chilly conditions and cold sleepers, so they deserve a mention too.

WINNER: Quilts and Sleeping Bags

Price

There are obviously many different products from many different manufacturers of varying degrees of quality and price. In general, we have found that quilts tend to offer a smaller price point, but high-quality options in either category will still require a sizable investment. Just remember, if you take good care of a quality piece of down gear, it can last for decades.

WINNER: Quilts

Packability

Because down quilts tend to have fewer materials and down fill, they also pack down a bit smaller and weigh less. High-quality down products in either variety (down fill of 800+) will still pack down very small.

WINNER: Quilts

Conclusion

If you’re looking for detailed recommendations, check out our lists of the best backpacking sleeping bags and best backpacking quilts.

If you normally backpack in warmer weather (nighttime temperatures in the 40s and up), we recommend trying a quilt. We almost always choose quilts for our summer backpacking trips. On the other hand, if you’re looking for one piece of gear that can still function well on warmer trips, but will also keep you protected on chilly trips, a sleeping bag may be your best option.

Frequent backcountry travelers will likely end up with both a quilt and a warm sleeping bag, selecting between them based on the conditions of their trip.

Lying approximately 100 miles east of Salt Lake City, the Uinta Mountain Range is home to the highest peaks in Utah and the only major range in the contiguous United States that orients east to west. It’s also the only mountain range in the world over 13,000 feet that doesn’t have glaciers.

Elevations throughout the Uintas range from 8,000 feet in the lower canyons to 13,528 feet atop Kings Peak – the highest point in Utah. Threaded between the peaks and ridgelines are 400 miles of streams and wide scenic basins holding some of the more than 500 small natural lakes of the Uintas.

Below its peaks, the range has a heavy forest canopy of coniferous trees. The lower elevations are similar to the Rockies with isolated meadows and islands of quaking aspen. All of these features make it ideal for backpacking.

The basins are the obvious choice, or consider make a base camp, then day-hike to the top of King’s Peak. Other options include the Red Castle Trail, Amethyst Lakes, and Henry Fork Lakes Loop or hike 104-mile lateral Highline Trail.

Quick Facts

Best Travel Time: Late June to Mid-September 

Permits: No (Forest Service fees)

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Peak Elevation: 13,528 ft.

Highlights

• Fascinating geology includes unique high-angle reverse faults on both north and south sides of the mountain range
• Beautiful lakes, waterfalls and marshes
• Heavy coniferous forest canopy
• Beautiful meadows and wildflowers
• Diverse wildlife , including elk, mule deer, moose, mountain goat, coyote, black bear, bighorn sheep, ptarmigan, river otter, pine marten, cougar
• Well-maintained trails
• Dogs allowed, but not recommended in some areas due to the wildlife risks
• Alpine lake fishing

Lowlights

• Snow well into July at some high elevations
• Muddy and rocky trails
• Armies of mosquitos and horseflies until fall
• Cold lakes makes swimming tempting, but challenging
• Giardia and campylobacter are prevalent in the streams and lakes
• Lots of people on the western side and close-in trailheads (day hikers)

Best Time to Hike

Surrounded by high desert, the Uintas normally receive about 40 inches of precipitation annually—mostly snow. If you hike during summer months above 10,000 feet, daytime highs rarely reach above 80 degrees, while night temperatures during summer range between 30-40 degrees. Afternoon thunderstorms are fairly typical. Below treeline, summer temps range from mid-70s to the mid-90s during the day with nighttime temps rarely dipping below 40.

August is the busiest month for backpacking into the high country. Some years June and October are dry and pleasant in the high mountains, but be advised that fast furious storms could arise in a hurry anytime. And lightening is a serious threat above treeline.

For local weather information below treeline, check the National Weather Service for the Uintas. For higher elevation weather, check the National Weather Service for Kings Peak.

Difficulty

We rate most backpacking trips in this area as moderate to difficult due to many steep ascents and the elevation. As always, difficulty ratings depend on the route you choose, experience, physical fitness, pack weight, and weather conditions.

Although most routes in The Winds are not technically demanding, you should always plan thoroughly, train properly, know your limitations, brush up on your skills, and dial in your gear. Doing so will make for a more safe and enjoyable adventure.

Permits

There are 7 Ranger Districts in the Uintas that can provide detailed information on fees and camping.

Per the Forest Service: you do not need a pass to just drive through on the Mirror Lake Highway. If you plan to hike, camp or backpack, passes are available for purchase at the Kamas office, Evanston office, and the Bear River Ranger Station (open seasonally). Self-service fee tubes are also located in various areas along the highway. Annual passes are not available at the self-service fee tubes.

All passes are fully transferable between the Mirror Lake Highway Recreation Corridor and the American Fork Canyon. America the Beautiful – Interagency Recreation Passes are honored. Campground fees are separate.

• 1-3 Day – $6.00
• 7-Day – $12.00
• Annual – $45.00

Passes may also be purchased at these locations.

• Samak Smokehouse
• Mirror Lake Service (Chevron)
• High Mountain Restaurant
• Kamas Foodtown (grocery store)

For more information contact the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest, Kamas office at (435) 783-4338 or the Evanston office at (307) 789-3194.

Best Backpacking Trips in the Uintas

RED CASTLE LAKES

Gorgeous alpine meadows and pitch-perfect backcountry camping make this area, especially at sunset, a wonderland. It gets its name from the red castle-like peaks that stand like a fortress above the basin.

With the ability to visit three different lakes along the trail, you could easily spend three days here, though most complete the trip in two. The landscape here is unbelievably photogenic, so don’t forget your camera. The Red Castle Peak downright glows at sunset.

Check out our Guide to Backpacking to Red Castle Lakes.

AMETHYST LAKE

The High Uinta WIlderness is home to a plethora of great backpacking options and a hike to Amethyst Basin is among the very best. Moderately challenging, this hike takes you up to a high alpine lake with gorgeous campsites options.

The trail follows the Stillwater and Ostler Forks of the Bear River as it ascends about 2050 feet, passing beautiful waterfalls on the way to a stunning cirque basin. The meadow-framed basin rewards backpackers with a glistening alpine lake with a panorama of views of Ostler and Hayden Peaks.

Extra days allow time for climbing Ostler Peak or walking the entire perimeter of the lake. 

Check out our Guide to Backpacking to Amethyst Lake.

HENRY’S FORK LAKE LOOP

This loop explores a gorgeous alpine mountain basin with every enticement you dream of — misty mountain meadows, tall pines, small lakes and winding streams that tie it all together. And if that weren’t enough, the whole scene is framed by a massive mountain range with Kings Peak at its head. This trip is truly a gem in the High Uintas, with an opportunity for some solitude along the way.

Check our our Guide to Backpacking Henry Forks Lake Loop.

Campsites

Advance reservations are essential for campgrounds along the Mirror Lake Highway, and for any campgrounds over major holiday weekends. The peak season for most campgrounds is Memorial Day through Labor Day. Most Ranger Districts keep some sites open after Labor Day, weather permitting. Be prepared to pay small self-issued fees for trailhead parking and/or camping at campgrounds that access trails.

For backcountry campsites, seven ranger districts in the Uintas provide detailed information on trails, camping and backcountry regulations for each area:

• Spanish Fork Ranger District (801) 798-3571
• Evanston-Mountain View Ranger District
• Evanston Office (307)) 789-3194
• Mountain View Office (307) 789-3194
• Bear River Ranger Station (435) 642-6662
• Heber-Kamas Ranger District
• Heber Office (435) 654-0470
• Kamas Office (435) 783-4338
• Logan Ranger District (435) 755-3620
• Ogden Ranger District (801) 625-5112
• Pleasant Grove Ranger District (801) 785-3563
• Salt Lake Ranger District (801) 733-2660

Water

Water is plentiful along many of the trails in the Uintas and accessible from small streams and lakes. As always, we recommend checking in with rangers regarding your specific trail.

Though many sources look pure, Giardia and Campylobacter are present in this area so we recommend using a lightweight water filter. Check out our best water filters list for more excellent options. 

Regulations & Trail Etiquette

Visit the Forest Service website to learn specific rules for the area you plan to travel in or through. In general though, the following apply:

• Hikers, horses and cyclists share some trails through the districts. Horses always have the right of way and cyclists must slow down or stop to permit the safe passage of foot traffic.
• Be aware and respectful of private land located throughout the canyons.
• The trails in the Uintas wilderness areas are constructed and maintained to minimize impact of human use.
• Several areas have campfire restrictions.
• Shortcutting switchbacks and cutting across meadows damage plant life and cause soil erosion. Always use trails provided; don’t create new ones.
• Hikers meeting horse parties on the trail should move a considerable distance off the trail and remain quiet and motionless until the horses pass, unless advised otherwise by the riders. Colorful backpacks, curious dogs, clicking trekking poles and any sudden noise or movement may cause a horse to spook, resulting in injury to horses, riders and hikers.
• Camp at least 200 feet from alpine streams and lakes to protect water quality, fragile vegetation and wildlife.
• Camp at least 100 feet from other campers and 200 feet from trails.
• Do not camp for more than three days at the same site (helps reduce campsite impacts and preserves wilderness solitude).

Critters & Food Storage

Black bears are an issue at some mid-elevation campgrounds. Check the local advisories. Never leave food or garbage around camp, and never store food in your tent. Hang it from the highest tree, or use a bear canister (not required).

Moose aren’t a food storage issue but they can be dangerous. Don’t be invasive and try to photograph them up close if you see them along the rivers or marshy areas. Don’t try to approach one. Avoid coming between a cow moose and her calf. If you see a calf, quickly access whether the mother is and get out of there. Adult moose can run as fast as 35 miles per hour. And, by the way, they’re excellent swimmers and can cover up to 6 miles in an hour for up to two hours at a time.

Bugs

Mosquitoes can be vicious in the Uintas. Black flies travel in armadas. Ticks carry Rocky Mountain Fever. Come prepared with bug hats and pack plenty of repellant.

Maps & Guidebooks

Hiking Utah’s High Uintas: A Guide to the Region’s Greatest Hikes by Brett Prettyman, an outdoors editor for the Salt Lake City Tribune. This guide includes descriptions of 99 routes throughout the backcountry wilderness of Utah’s Uinta Mountains and High Uintas Wilderness, including easy day hikes to great fishing spots, adventurous treks to remote campsites, and extended backpacking trips for intrepid wilderness travelers.

National Geographic High Uinta’s Wilderness Trails Illustrated Map This map covers the High Uintas Wilderness, as well as the Ashley and Wasatch-Cache National Forests. It features key points of interest and is printed on “Backcountry Tough” waterproof, tear-resistant paper. A full UTM grid is printed on the map to aid with GPS navigation.

60 Hikes Within 60 Miles: Salt Lake City by Greg Witt. This book includes many of the best hikes in the Western Uintas with detailed trail descriptions that range from easy strolls to challenging backpacks. Extensive key-at-a-glance information makes it easier to choose a hike based on length, difficulty, or scenery.

High Uintas Backcountry by Jeffrey Probst This trail guide travels the length of the Uintas with descriptions on 99 hikes, 600 fishable lakes, and over 400 miles of streams. Each story includes a trip planner, photo, and map. The appendix includes full maps of all areas, a campground and trailhead directory with directions. There are over 200 photos and maps.

Conclusion

We hope this guide helps you plan a fantastic backpacking trip to the Uintas!

It’s no wonder the Grand Canyon is among the most visited national parks in the country. The scenery is spectacular. But how do you choose the best day hike in the Grand Canyon when there are plenty of trails that descend deep into the canyon and some stunning rim trails with expansive vistas?

This guide highlights some of our favorite day hiking adventures in the Grand Canyon and outlines some considerations when planning your trip. Whichever route you choose, your senses will be overloaded with the immense beauty and size of this swath of canyon in the Southwest.

Best Time to Visit

For day hikers along the rim, the only limiting factor is gear, daylight, and the ability to deal with snow and ice in winter (the right clothing and footwear).

For hikers willing to dip their toes a bit further into the Canyon, it’s best to stick with backpacking season—which is generally March to June and mid-September to early November.

Don’t even think about hiking into the Canyon in summer. It’s an undertaking that should only be considered by experienced desert and canyon hikers.

Difficulty

In the Grand Canyon, even a day hike is not without its risks and challenges. The Canyon is an extreme environment where it’s far too easy to under-estimate exertion, distance, and the amount of water you need to hike safely in the dry desert air.

That said, the main corridor trails are accessible, and those with relative fitness will feel well-rewarded hiking even a couple of miles down into the canyon.

But always remember: what goes down, must come up. As a rule of thumb, it’s twice as hard to hike back up the Grand Canyon than it is to hike down into it. If you descend from the rim for an hour, it will probably take you two hours – and a lot more effort and energy – to hike back up that same stretch of trail.

One of the hardest aspects of a day hiking into the Canyon is recognizing your limits and resisting the pull of gravity and spontaneity. Legions of day hikers have been seduced into continuing on despite being short on water or gear, a reality reflected in the 250 rescues rangers record on average each year. You need to accept the fact that turning around may be your best decision many times.

What Gear Do I Need?

When heading out into the wilderness for the day, it’s critical that you have the right gear in your pack. In our article 10 Things You Should Bring On Every Day Hike, we outline what you need to have a safe and enjoyable day in the canyon.

For Grand Canyon day hikes, the three most important items on the 10 essentials list are (1) water, (2) water, and (3) water – followed by sun protection. Due to the dry desert air and extreme elevation changes, you may need to carry 3-4 liters of water for a simple day hike. You may need to leave your water bottles at home and instead wear a hydration pack or carry a 100 oz hydration bladder inside your day pack.

A sun shirt and lightweight hiking pants will also slow down your moisture loss while protecting you from UV rays. Light layers and light colors are key.

Desert dwellers understand that air environments like the Grand Canyon require more water to stay safe. That’s even more true if you hike below the rim – where the temperatures get hotter the further down you go and your exertion levels go way up due to the steepness of the trails.

Best Day Hikes in the Grand Canyon

Day hikes at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon are fairly limited. Your best bets are the Rim Trail and the maintained corridor trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab). Adventurous and experienced hikers could consider a few other options outlined below.

Interested in North Rim Trails? We would normally recommend the North Kaibab Trail and the Cape Final Trail. However, the Dragon Bravo wildfire of 2025 caused extensive damage to the trails and infrastructure of the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. As of November, 2025, most North Rim hikes remain closed due to washed out trails, rockslides, treefall, and other fire damage.

The North Kaibab Trail is closed indefinitely. The fire also damaged or destroyed more than half of the buildings on the North Rim, including the historic Grand Canyon Lodge. Lodging is nearly non-existent on the North Rim, and many roads, utilities, and services remain closed.

A few North Rim roads and trails partially opened in October, 2025:

• Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial to Cape Royal Road (out and back hike only)
• Cape Royal Trail
• Cliff Spring Trail
• Cape Final Trail
• Roosevelt Point Trail

Please see the National Park Service’s Status of the North Rim for up to date information.

RIM TRAIL

Distance: Up to 26.8 miles (43km) roundtrip

Location: South Rim

Difficulty: Easy to moderate (the latter dependent on distance)

Elevation gain/loss: 6820 ft.

For hikers short on time or conditioning, a hike along the Rim Trail offers plenty rewards, particularly if timed with sunrise or sunset. You can jump on or off the shuttle to make your hike easy or harder.

Stretching from the South Kaibab Trailhead east of the main village to Hermits Trailhead in the west on a mostly paved trail, day hikers can easily customize the distance by using shuttle buses. Many people hit the in the main village area and head west to Hermits Rest. The entire route offers a fantastic overview of the west midsection of the Canyon. Keep in mind there is no water west of Bright Angel Lodge.

The shuttle bus for this route operates from March 1 to November 30. Buses provide transportation between the Village Route Transfer and Hermits Rest with stops at nine canyon overlooks. During the return trip, buses stop only at Hermits Rest, Pima, Mohave, and Powell Points.

BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL

To Mile-and-a-Half Rest House, Indian Gardens, or Plateau Point

Distance: 3 to 12 miles (5-20km) roundtrip

Location: South Rim – Grand Canyon Village

Difficulty: easy to moderate

Elevation Gain/Loss: 6,850 ft. (2087 m ) / 3110 feet (947 m)

The Bright Angel Trail is the most popular and easily accessed trail from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

The steepness of this trail can sneak up on inexperienced hikers. Remember the Grand Canyon rule of thumb: going up generally takes twice as long as going down. Don’t get carried away on the easier descents since you’ll need twice as much time and energy to go back up the way you came.

That being said, if you’re in really good shape and a regular hiker, the Bright Angel Trail may feel easy heading down, though you will have to deal with the constant drip of other hikers and mule trains during peak hiking seasons. That’s the reason they call Bright Angel the Canyon’s SuperHighway. For strong day hikers, coming up Bright Angel won’t be as hard as ascending the less maintained trails in the canyon). The route begins just west of Bright Angel Lodge and offers some shade and seasonal water. Upper portions of the trail can be icy in winter and early spring (bring some micro spikes).

You can choose a range of down-and-up hikes on the Bright Angel Trail. Here are popular turn-around points:

A hike from the Bright Angel trailhead down to the Mile and a Half Resthouse is an excellent toe-dipper, especially for less fit and less experienced hikers. It’s only a 3-mile roundtrip hike. Even so, this introductory hike generally takes 2-4 hours (depending on your health, hiking ability, and rest stops) due to the steepness of the trail.

Havasupai Garden, another 3 miles further, is truly an oasis in the desert, a beautiful riparian area shaded by cottonwood trees. You’ll find water, a ranger station, toilets and an emergency phone. There’s also year around water at Havasupai Gardens (formerly called Indian Gardens, which the National Park Service renamed in 2022 because the local Havasupai tribe found the original name offensive). If you turn around at Havasupai Gardens, the trip is 9.6 miles – 3,000+ feet down and 3,000+ feet up.

If you continue on out to Plateau Point, where you can peer into the dark abyss of the inner gorge rising above the Colorado River, the trip is an awesome 12 miles roundtrip. Avoid trying to go to Plateau Point in summer, and always get an early morning start in spring and fall. It’s a hot box between Indian Gardens and Plateau Point.

SOUTH KAIBAB TRAIL

To Ooh Aah Point, Cedar Ridge, Skeleton Point

Distance: up to 6 miles (10 km) roundtrip

Location: South/East Rim (access via shuttle bus from Grand Canyon Visitor Center)

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Elevation Gain/Loss: 7260 ft. (2212 m) / 2100 ft. (640 m)

The route dives fast from the trailhead, immediately heading down a course of tight switchbacks blasted out of the cliff-face that lines it. They call this section “the drainpipe,” which helps underline why this is not a trail for inexperienced or exposure-wary hikers, especially when the crowds and mules are added in. But for conditioned hikers, it’s a fantastic way to experience the inner canyon fast.

An expansive panoramic overview gives Ooh Aah Point located .9 miles in at 6600 ft. (2011 m), its name. You can see glimpses of the dark Vishnu Schist of the inner gorge of the Colorado. Being a ridge trail, it’s exposed to the sun the entire distance. So if you’ve got a late start, this is a good place to turn around; there’s no water available on the South Kaibab Trail. The view, though, is stupendous, taking in many of the central Canyon’s notable landmark buttes as well, including Isis Temple, Zoroaster Temple, Wonton’s Throne, Braham Temple, and Vishnu Temple.

From Ooh Aah Point to Cedar Ridge the trail continues a winding, steep descent. Around 1.2 miles, the switchbacks segue into a gentle slope just before reaching Cedar Ridge at 1.5 miles and 6120 ft. (1865 m). Now more than a thousand feet below the rim, you’ll start to feel the Canyon’s sensual overwhelm. The viewpoint features some big rock slabs to lean on, backcountry toilets, a scattering of juniper offering a wee bit of shade, and lots of persistent squirrels.

Skeleton Point is another 1.5 miles and 2,100 feet off the rim, on a trail similar to the track described above, but now arching around O’Neill Butte and requiring some tight maneuvers when the trail is busy. It then transitions into a wide flat area lined with stones and interspersed with Mormon tea (ephedra viridis), catclaw acacia, and creosote bush. The view is utterly magnificent. If you were backpacking, you would be halfway to Phantom Ranch. Nevertheless, you still get an overview of the Colorado River as it scours the inner canyon 3,000 feet below.

HERMIT TRAIL

To Santa Maria Spring, Breezy Point

Distance: 4.4 to 11 miles (7-18 km) roundtrip

Location: South Rim – 8 miles West of Grand Canyon Village

Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Elevation/Loss: 6640 ft. (2024 m) / 2220 ft. (676 m)

Located 8 miles (12.8 km) west of Grand Canyon Village, the trailhead is located about 500 feet west of Hermit’s Rest. From late spring through early Fall you can reach Hermit’s Rest via the West Rim Shuttle bus. It’s a quarter mile or so walk to the trailhead. When the shuttle isn’t running you can drive directly to the trailhead or arrange for a taxi to drop you off.

This is another trail best reserved for strong, experienced hikers. As early as late March, the inner canyon temperatures can reach 100 F in the shade. By April they can hit 110 F, which is why this is a good trail to avoid from June to early September, unless you’re accustomed to dry hot weather. Carry a water filter or plenty of water as Santa Maria Spring water is untreated. In peak season, two quarts per person is a reasonable amount. In summer, you’ll need more.

To reach the spring, located 1,600 feet below the rim, you’ll navigate a steep, rocky unmaintained trail. Overall, it’s not as intimidating as South Kaibab or Grandview, though. And it offers an entirely different view of the Canyon, opening up to big broad walls rather than following a side canyon or ridge around buttes.

At the spring, head to the bench by the stone shelter and take a load off your dogs before beginning the relentless ascent back to the rim or continuing on to Breezy Point at 4420 ft. (1,347 m) and 5.5 mi (8.8 km). The trail from Santa Maria Spring to Breezy Point is characterized by long traverses bordered by the west facing walls of the south rim, providing some shade midday.

GRANDVIEW TO HORSHOE MESA

Distance: 2.2 to 6 miles (4-10 km) roundtrip

Location: South Rim – 12 miles East of Grand Canyon Village

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Elevation/Loss: 7400 ft. (2256 m) / 2500 ft. (762 m)

Steeper with considerably more exposure than the corridor trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab), sections of slippery Supai sandstone and annoying cobblestone steps (built by miners back in the day) that will require shorter people to actually have to sit down to descend them, make this 6-mile hike more like an 10-miler time wise. (Insider tip: a day hike to Plateau Point and back takes less time than a day hike to Horseshoe Mesa and back). If you’re looking for a fairly quick in-the-Canyon experience, a trip to the Coconino Saddle at mile 1.1 and 6210 ft (1893 m), a scenic backpacker’s rest area with views of Coronado Butte to the east and Grapevine Canyon to the west, is an excellent option.

If you continue descending to Horseshoe Mesa, you’ll discover a wonderland of trails tracking across the arms of the mesa. Taking any one of these trails (up to one mile each way) leads to views of the Tonto Trail, Cottonwood Creek, glimpses of the inner gorge and Soldangler Rapids. The mesa features the Canyon’s most scenic open air biffy, the remnants of Pete Berry’s old mining camp cook cabin and several closed mines littered with turquoise colored rocks. This trail is treacherous in winter when persistent ice forms on high-exposure sections. Microspikes are mandatory.

DESERT VIEW TO COMANCHE POINT

Distance: 12 miles (20 km) roundtrip

Location: South Rim – 25 miles East of Grand Canyon Village

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation/gain: 7062 ft. (2152 m) / 600 ft. (182 m)

You can see Comanche Point from the Desert View lookout (25 miles east of Grand Canyon Village) but you’ll only garner its outrageously fine views hoofing it out there. Located about 6 miles east of the tourist area, it overlooks the Colorado River about half way across the western face of the Cape Solitude Plateau. There’s a good reason it is called Cape Solitude: It’s neither well known nor well traveled, but it is marked on most Grand Canyon maps. The entire distance can be accomplished as a day hike, taking about 3 to 3.5 miles to get out to the viewpoint. It’s so worth it.

From Desert View Campground area head northeasterly along the double track road. Basic route finding is needed in a few areas: At about 2.25 miles from Desert View Campground, you’ll arrive at a junction (currently) marked with a large cairn. Head left (west) at this road split. Eventually, you reach some old fence posts (around 3.25 mile mark, which is also a good place to leave a water stash). From there, follow the drainage heading north.

In about a mile, you’ll come to the junction of a large canyon to the east that forms a saddle. Walk to the obvious edge of the canyon opening for fantastic views of the northeast section of the Canyon. Continue up a long slope that gains about 600 feet before reaching a false summit. The Comanche overlook of the Colorado comes just after a false small-summit to the southwest. Camping out there requires a permit.

Camping in the Grand Canyon

MATHER CAMPGROUND

For those looking to car camp during their visit, Mather Campground is the primary place to pitch your tent in Grand Canyon National Park. It’s located on the edge of the very busy Grand Canyon Village (a historic district, lodges, shuttle buses, visitor center, train etc.). You can make reservations up to 6 months in advance. Keep in mind that this is a tent campground. Mather Campground reservations can be made through the National Recreation Reservation Service. Call 1-877-444-6777or reserve online at https://www.recreation.gov/.

During December, January and February, the campground office is closed and no online reservations are available. Registration is first-come, first-serve using the self-pay machine located at the campground office at the entrance to the campground. Before your visit, visit the Grand Canyon NPS’s Winter Campground Bulletin and Map to ensure you are prepared for your trip.

TRAILER VILLAGE

There are no RV hook-ups at Mather Campground. For that you will need to go to the commercial campground called Trailer Village, a concessioner-operated RV park with full hook-ups. For reservations visit Delaware North Parks & Resorts website.

The NPS also operates a campground on the far east end of the park (25 miles/ 41km east of Grand Canyon Village) near the east entrance called Desert View Campground. It is not open in winter (it’s typically closed from mid-October to mid-April). It is first-come, first-served only and typically fills by noon daily. There also are NO RV hook-ups at Desert View.

Grand Canyon NPS is surrounded by and intersected by national forest. It’s perfectly legal to camp “at-large” in the national forest outside the park. Some safety risks are involved, particularly during hunting season.

Camping must be at least a quarter mile away from Highway 64. Other restrictions apply. Contact the Tusayan Ranger District, Kaibab National Forest, P.O. Box 3088, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 or call (928) 638-2443 for information.

You cannot camp in the Canyon’s interior without a permit. Do not make the mistake of packing emergency overnight gear and expect to get away with camping if you get too tired. Many a hiker without a permit has been escorted out of Indian Gardens and elsewhere by rangers even after dark.

Water

The Grand Canyon is designated as a “climate friendly” park. The park has made a commitment to taking a leadership role in reducing greenhouse gas emissions and educating the public about what you can do to reduce your impacts on the park by reducing plastics in the park’s waste stream, litter along trails and walkways and green house gas emissions.

You can fill your bottle at water fountains and sinks in buildings and facilities throughout the park and you can still buy individual, single-serve water bottles at the Marketplace and various other stores.

But a much better option is to bring your own and head to one of the many filling stations throughout the park where you can get free Grand Canyon-sourced spring water originating from the park’s approved water supply located at Roaring Springs.

The following South Rim filling stations provide year-round access to water and are located at:

• Maswik Lodge (in the cafeteria)
• Hermits Rest
• Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trailheads
• Canyon Village and Desert View Marketplaces
• Yavapai Geology Museum
• Grand Canyon, Verkamp’s and Desert View Visitor Centers and

Backpacking Options

Without a doubt, the Grand Canyon is rated as one of the most popular backpacking destination in the world. It offers great off-season backpacking options when mountain destinations are socked in with snow. But competition for permits is steep, so you’ll need to plan your trip months in advance.

Backpacking in the park will require a deep dive into the park’s regulations and permitting process. You also must familiarize yourself with unique desert hiking protocols. To learn more about backpacking in the park, as well as the permitting process, visit the Backcountry NPS page.

Maps & Guidebooks

Hiking Grand Canyon National Park: A Guide to the Best Hiking Adventures on the North and South Rims  (2020) – This book features descriptions and detailed maps for all of the park’s developed trails as well as tips on safety, hiking with children, access, and services.

Sky Terrain’s Grand Canyon Trail Map 5th Edition Map (2016) Kent Schulte’s water and tear resistant map is, in our opinion, the best map of the Grand Canyon. But it’s not really necessary if you are planning to do day hikes.

Best Easy Day Hikes Grand Canyon (2020) Falcon Guide by Ben Adkison is an inexpensive and very thorough day hikes guide.

Conclusion

We hope this guide helps you plan an awesome visit to one of our nation’s most spectacular national parks. You really can’t go wrong in the Grand Canyon, so pack a bag and hit the trails!

The ZPacks Arc Blast is one of the lightest and most comfortable backpacks I’ve ever taken on the trail. At a mere 16.4 ounces, the ZPacks Arc Blast is an ultralight backpackers dream come true.Its minimal, carbon fiber frame provides airflow to your back, which is an uncommon benefit for ultralight packs. The design of the pack is simple, making it convenient and easy to use. Large hip-belt pockets and shoulder strap pouches are an additional benefit that should not be passed up. The Arc Blast is an exceptional blend of toughness and simplicity that will greatly reduce your pack weight.

ZPacks owner, Joe Valesko, is a seasoned thru-hiker and triple crown backpacker. He knows his stuff and his company has an excellent reputation for customer service. If you’re an ultralight backpacker in need of a pack upgrade, I highly recommend the ZPacks Arc Blast. For more information on critical considerations for backpacks and our recommendations, check out our Best Lightweight Backpacks page.

Pros

Lightweight

This pack is light. And I mean light. 16.4 ounces is featherweight. And it really feels that way on your back. At 16.4oz, this bag is about as light as they get.

Comfortable & breathable

The shoulder straps and hip belt have excellent padding. They are very comfortable and have added stitching to increase durability. The hip belt on this pack isn’t as rigid as many pack belts tend to be. The advantage of this is increased comfort around your waist, but this style won’t be ideal for heavy loads and rigid hip support. The Arc Blast frame design really is quite smart. It allows for airflow to your back, which will help control your body temperature and reduce back sweat while you hike. You also won’t need to rely on a foam pad for back support, like many other UL packs. If you prefer to sleep on air pads, this frame design will help reduce unnecessary back padding weight.

Minimal Design

The clips and straps on this bag are small and light. They seem a lot more minimal than other packs I’ve used and they are probably not as tough. That being said, I think a good balance was struck in this area. If your gear is light, you won’t need heavy straps on your pack. I was worried at first that the straps and clips were too small, but I quickly changed my mind once I got this pack on the trail.

Durable

Durability is another area where I think this pack is deceptive. At 16.4oz with a minimal frame and strap design, I was worried that this pack wouldn’t be able to handle the toughness of the trail. So far it has crushed my expectations. I’ve logged about 250 trail miles with this pack and it looks like it has a ton of life left in it. I don’t think it will be as durable as some other UL packs and it definitely won’t be as durable as a traditional backpack, but I would absolutely feel comfortable taking this pack on a thru-hike without hesitation. Treat it with care and it’ll last a long time.

Hip belt pockets and shoulder strap pouch

The optional hip belt pockets (extra cost) on this pack are roomy. ZPacks updated their hip pockets in April, so I haven’t had a chance to use the new pocket design, but it looks very similar to the old design with a few improvements. The hip belt pockets are now waterproof, which is a great touch. They are also latched with a simple clip now, which is another improvement.They are still quite large, which is great for carrying easily accessible gear, but they can get in the way of swinging arms while you hike. I ultimately didn’t find this to be an issue, but it was annoying at first and it took a little while to get used to. I wouldn’t ever backpack with a pack that didn’t have hip belt pockets, so I’d definitely recommend adding a pair to your order.

I would also highly recommend adding one shoulder strap pouch (extra cost) to your order. I found wearing one shoulder strap pouch to be incredibly useful. I’ve been looking for a better spot on my pack to store my camera and sunglasses for a long time. I want them to be easily accessible and always in a safe place, especially when my pack is resting on the ground. I found that adding a shoulder strap pouch was the perfect solution to my problem. My camera and glasses are always safely suspended in an easy to reach position.

Size & capacity

The size of this pack is also quite appropriate for ultralight pack users. It’s a slim pack, so it won’t hold as much gear as other pack designs. I found the 52L model to be an appropriate size for all of my UL gear with five days of supplies and plenty of room to spare. ZPacks also offers a 60L model, which is a bit bigger for users who are concerned with space. If you’re an ultralight backpacker that knows how to pack light, I’d recommend the 52L size. If you’re transitioning to UL backpacking and are nervous about needing more space, get the 60L pack.

Cons

Cost

The main downside to this bag is probably the price. Cuben fiber is an excellent material to use for UL backpacking gear, but it is very expensive. One of the main reasons that this bag is so light is because it’s constructed with cuben fiber. So, there’s really nothing that ZPacks can do about the price, it’s just the tradeoff for working with UL materials. Though it will surely be too expensive for some, I still think it’s well worth the investment.

Not great for carrying heavy loads

Another downside to the Arc Blast is its size and load carrying ability. This is not a downside for most ultralight backpackers; in fact, it’s exactly what we’re looking for. But for traditional backpackers, an ultralight bag can sometimes be a tough transition. The Acr Blast will carry a light load exceptionally well, but if you’re planning on carrying a lot of weight, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Sometimes Your Equipment can poke your back

The design of the Arc Blast is great for increasing airflow to your back while you hike. This is an important feature, especially if you sweat a lot on the trail. You will still have to pack your bag carefully because poorly packed equipment can poke you in the back while you hike. The Arc Blast now has two horizontal bars on the frame, which will help provide more space than the model I am using.

Not the best in the rain

The Arc Blast pack I tested was not seam-taped for water protection, but cuben fiber is a waterproof material. When it rained, water would run through the seams (especially through the bottle holders) and get into the bag. It’s uncommon to find waterproof backpacks, so this wasn’t the biggest deal to me. I almost always line the inside of my pack with a trash bag when it’s raining, even if my backpack claims to be waterproof. It’s just not worth the risk of getting your gear wet. Now ZPacks tapes the seams of the Arc Blast for added water protection. My guess is that this makes a big improvement, but I would probably still line the inside of my bag in a rainstorm.

Wait time to purchase gear

ZPacks is a small company, which comes with certain advantages and disadvantages. They build their products on demand, constantly innovate, and do excellent custom work. The downside is that they often have long wait times for their products. The current wait time for this pack is 4-5 weeks. It’s not always that long and they will do their best to get you your gear ASAP. Joe is very good at responding to personal requests, so don’t hesitate to send them an email if you have questions. I think their products are well worth the wait and I enjoy supporting small businesses that are doing good work.

Bottom Line

I don’t often find backpacks that are extremely light, comfortable, and tough and that’s why the Arc Blast makes our list of Best Lightweight Backpacks.

Caring for your camping and backpacking tents is well worth the time. Proper cleaning, repairing, and storage ensure your investment lasts for years of adventures. A little extra care goes a long way to prolong the lifespan of a shelter.

Here are a few tricks we’ve learned over the decades about properly maintaining, repairing, and storing tents to keep them in peak condition.

For our favorite tents, check out these gear guides:

• Best Camping Tents
• Best Backpacking Tents
• Best Ultralight Tents & Tarps
• Best Budget Tents

Protecting Your Tent On Trail

CHOOSE CAMPSITES CAREFULLY

One of the simplest things you can do to protect your tent is to choose your tentsite wisely. Established campsites with smooth, packed dirt are the least abrasive on your tent floor. Even better, adding a footprint will prolong the life of your tent floor.

Before you set up your tent, do a quick sweep of the site and clear any poky bits, loose rocks, sticks, and debris that could puncture your tent floor.

AVOID STORING FOOD IN YOUR TENT

Animals (mostly rodents) have happily chewed through our tent to get to our food before. It’s really frustrating and it gives everyone the heebie jeebies.

To avoid a mouse near your head at 2 am and a hole in your tent, it’s best to store your food in your car, an animal-proof container (see our guide to the best food storage containers and bear canisters) away from your campsite. If you are in established campsites where mice have become quite bold, even food in your car should be in sealed plastic bins.

PROTECT YOUR POLES

During setup, it’s easy to shake your poles and let the shock cord sections whip into place. However, this puts stress on your poles and cords. Your tent will last longer if you take your time and connect the segments one at a time by hand, so there’s less torque and force on the fittings, which is where they tend to snap first.

This similarly ensures that each segment is fully inserted into the previous one, maximizing its strength under flexion. We’ve split a few pole segments at the tip because we were a little too hasty with our setup.

When taking your tent down, set your poles out of the way until you’re ready to break them down so you don’t accidentally step on them. And be careful not to overstretch the inner cords that hold them together when you fold them up.

Dirt, snow, and debris can wear out the pole joints, so try to keep them off the ground and dust off anything that sneaks in.

BE GENTLE WITH YOUR ZIPPERS

It’s the first point of injury on just about every tent we’ve owned, especially if it’s shared with children or aggressive zipperers. Snagging the tent’s zipper on the wall fabric is very common. If this happens, don’t force it. Instead, slowly and gently pull the zipper back while wiggling the fabric free. To avoid snagging or applying too much tension to zipper seams, use both hands to guide the zipper and pull in some slack as it zips.

It can be helpful to have a small multitool with pliers to realign zipper teeth if they get bent out of place (though notably, this works best on old-school metal zippers and less well on most newer plastic zippers). Periodically wiping down your zippers with a damp cloth and applying a wax-based zipper lubricant (or Chapstick in a pinch) will help keep them working smoothly.

SHAKE IT OUT

Shaking out your tent during takedown ensures that there is no debris or dirt left inside when you pack it in its stuff sack. Holding the tent with two hands out in front of you, we like to tilt it slightly to settle all the dirt in one corner, then give it a few gentle bounces to get the debris out through the door

ROLLING VS. STUFFING

This comes down to neatness versus speed. Folding your tent into thirds and rolling it with the poles in the center protects the poles and is gentler on the tent fabric. As you start to roll, use your hand to sweep away dirt, sand, pine needles, or any debris as you work your way up. We prefer rolling for long-term storage after or between trips at home.

For on-trail carrying, we stuff our tent either directly into our pack or into a stuff sack (especially if the tent is wet). If going directly into a pack, avoid placing it next to hard items like cookware or anything snag-worthy or sharp.

The stuff method is undoubtedly faster and easier – it just requires a little attention, so you don’t catch a bunch of twigs in the mesh as you go.

PROTECT YOUR TENT FROM DIRECT UV EXPOSURE

When possible, set up your tent out of direct sunlight, maybe under a tree canopy or in the shadow of a rock wall. Sun exposure degrades the polyester or nylon fibers that make up the main tent fabric and will delaminate some waterproof coatings. Over time, the material becomes less waterproof and more brittle.

Tent Cleaning At Home

Before you hit the trail, carefully inspect your tent. If a tent is stored damp or in a damp space, it will harbor mold and mildew. This is an instance where the nose knows – you’ll almost certainly be able to smell the funk. Below are some general tips for spot-cleaning, deodorizing, and resealing its seams.

Tempting as it may be, avoid using washing machines (especially older models with an agitator) and dryers as they stress the seams, zippers, and mesh of your tent.

Sap and SPOT TREATMENTS

Pre-treat any stains with an organic citrus-based solvent or mild dish soap and a non-abrasive sponge. If you’re dealing with stubborn tree sap, try rubbing it with an ice cube to harden it before scraping it off.

You can also sandwich a sap spot with paper and very cautiously run a warm iron over it (it’s effective and also very risky – synthetic tent fibers will melt if they get too hot).

After you spot-clean the problem areas, give the tent a good all-over wash by following the steps below.

DEODORIZE & CLEAN

If the tent needs a deep cleaning or needs to be recoated because the waterproofing has worn away, use a cleaner specifically formulated for outdoor gear.

Our go-to tech cleaner, Nikwax Tech Wash, can be used to remove dirt and residue that otherwise prevents waterproof coatings from bonding to the tent fabric.

If your tent has a really strong odor similar to vomit (an odor caused by a specific strain of mold), fill a utility sink or a bathtub with warm water and 4 cups of baking soda or a cup of enzyme cleaner. Soak for about two hours.

Rinse, dry, and check for lingering odors. If the funk still isn’t gone, repeat as necessary. Make sure it’s 100% dry before storing your tent and avoid keeping it in an already-damp space like a basement.

Waterproofing Your Tent

RECOAT SEAMS

Check the seams on the rainfly, tent body, and floor to ensure the tape remains smooth and flat. It can start to lift up around areas of stress – especially the seam between the floor and canopy, on corners, pole sleeves, and zippers. Untaped seams that were previously sealed will show peeling when they need to be retreated. To reseal your tent:

• Determine where the seam sealer should be applied – on the inside or outside of the seam. Most are sealed on the inside, but check to see which side the original tape or sealant was applied to. One way to do this is to dribble some water on the seam. If the droplets pool or puddle up, the seal is on the opposite side. If the droplets bead up or roll away, you are probably on the side of the original seal.
• Using a ¼-inch foam or bristle paintbrush, recoat seams in the floor and interior walls of the tent body and fly. Look for any pinholes in the tent, and hit them with a little dab of the same sealant.
• Allow sealed seams to dry for 24 hours before packing the tent or recoating the tent body, floor, and fly.

WATERPROOFING THE TENT BODY, FLOOR & FLY

This should only be necessary on tents where the waterproofing has significantly degraded. One sign of this is when the fly or tent walls start to stick together. A good product is Gear Aid’s Tent Fabric Sealant.

To apply a new waterproofing:

• Lay the tent on a hard surface and scrub off as much of the flaky coating as you can using a bristle brush. Wash and dry per the above instructions.
• Set the tent body up on a clean, hard surface and apply two coats of sealant (let the first coat dry for 24 hours). A wide 2- to 3-inch foam brush makes application easy and produces a clear and flexible finish. Spray PU is also an effective option, albeit more expensive. We like NikWax Tent & Gear SolarProof which includes solar-proofing and waterproofing in one.
• Allow to dry at least 24 hours before packing up.

ZIPPERS

If a zipper gets stuck, don’t yank on it. Hold the fabric tight and try to work out the jam with small movements. If you have a graphite pencil, it may help to rub the tip against the teeth.

An emergency fix for a door with broken zippers that will (sort of) spare you aggravation in buggy environments is to keep some small safety pins in your repair kit for pinning the door closed.

To actually fix a broken zipper, you’ll need to use a zipper repair kit at home.

TENT POLES

Duct tape is a solid repair option for poles that break in the field. For our trips, we cut a 2-3-foot section of duct tape and wrap it around a trekking pole or a lighter. Most new tents come with a small 4-6 inch section of pole material to use as a splint, or you can use a tent stake to make one.

Place the splint across the broken or bent sections, then wrap duct tape around it to secure it.

When you get home, check with the retailer, manufacturer, or Tent Pole Technologies for a replacement pole. You may still be under warranty.

How to Re-Tension Slack in Poles

If your tent poles are too slack, they may not provide a taut, stable structure when you set up the tent. This is a common way poles fail. Once home, you can either replace the shock cords entirely or simply shorten the existing cords.

To shorten existing shock cords, remove the aluminum end cap from each pole (carefully, using a strong-grip plier). Holding onto the slack cord, pull it until it is taut (on the open end), keeping all the pole segments together.

Cut the cord and tie a small knot. The cord should be about 65 to 75% of the length of the pole. Slip the little knot inside the end pole segment and replace the end cap.

STAKES

If you lose or damage a tent stake, you can improvise in the field with a combination of sticks and rocks. Drive a stick into the ground as you would a stake, then find heavy rocks to place in front of the stick (between the stick and the tent) to stabilize.

See our guide to the best tent stakes for an upgrade.

Tent Storage Tips

After you return home from your trip, it’s easy to just throw your gear in the garage and let it sit until your next trip. However, how you store your tent significantly affects its lifespan.

SHAKE YOUR TENT OUT & HANG IT TO DRY COMPLETELY

Allowing your tent to dry 100% before storage is arguably the most important step in tent care. It’s easy to forget getting in late after a big weekend, but don’t delay!

Storing a damp tent will cause the tent fabric to mildew, which is not only smelly but also degrades the waterproof coating on the fabric.

PACK YOUR TENT LOOSELY

Instead of storing your tent in a stuff sack long-term, pack it loosely in a large mesh bag or a duffel bag. This will help prevent moisture from becoming trapped, reducing the risk of mold and mildew.

STORE YOUR TENT IN A CONDITIONED AREA

Though unheated basements, attics, garages, or storage units seem like the best place to get gear out of the way, most lack insulation and can get super hot, musty, or damp.

Instead, store your tent in a heated area of your home, like a spare bedroom, hall closet, or under your bed.

More Information

We hope this guide helps you care for your tent properly so you can use it for years of outdoor adventures. As always, please leave a comment below with any recommendations, questions, or suggestions, or visit our Facebook page and Instagram to join the community conversation.

For more info, check out some of our other most popular gear guides:

On almost every backpacking trip we go on, people stop us to talk about how small and light our backpacks look. People often assume that ultralight backpackers are cutting out critical pieces of gear, sleeping uncomfortably, or maybe even traveling unsafely. But the truth is, you can still bring along cushy wide/long sleeping pads, roomy 3-person tents, plush sleeping bags, and even comfortable pillows without weighing yourself down.

In our ultralight kits, we don’t skimp on warmth, food, or weather protection, and we often have room for a few luxury items like wine or a chair. We love hiking with an ultralight kit because it allows us to spend less time worrying about aches and pains and more time enjoying side trails and the beautiful scenery around us. Whether you’re new to backpacking or you’re a traditional backpacker looking to lighten your load, we’ll break down everything you need to know about getting started with ultralight backpacking.

HOW DO WE DO IT?

So what does it take to go from being a traditional backpacker to an ultralight backpacker? (Hint: It isn’t all about sacrifice)

• Attention to detail
• Investment in quality lightweight gear
• Ingenuity
• Practice

By making thoughtful decisions, tinkering with your equipment to perfect your backpacking setup, and learning what you really need/don’t need through experience, you too can become an ultralight backpacker.

Once you try traveling ultralight, we’re sure you’ll love it so much that you may never go back to your heavy gear again. You may even want to hike and backpack a lot more often than you used to since it’s so much easier and more enjoyable. Below, we’ll give you some pointers to help you get started.

DuskHiker Ultralight Backpacking Basics Video

Brand New To Backpacking?

Great! You’re in the right place. Check out our Lightweight Backpacking Foundations video series, which explains what ultralight is and demonstrates options for lightweight shelters, backpacks, sleeping bags, and more. If you like our Foundations videos, you might also enjoy watching our Essential Trail Skills series, which teaches the most critical skills for backpackers of all levels.

We also have a ton of other helpful resources to introduce people to the world of backpacking, including these popular DuskHiker Gear Guides:

• Ultimate Backpacking Checklist
• Best Hiking Shoes for Men / Best Hiking Shoes for Women
• Best Hiking Boots for Men / Best Hiking Boots for Women
• Best Ultralight Backpacking Tents
• Best Backpacking Sleeping Bags & Best Backpacking Quilts
• Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads
• Best Backpacking Backpacks
• Best Backpacking Stoves
• Backpacking Food Planning
• Best Backpacking Water Filters
• Best Rain Jackets
• Best Down Jackets
• And Many More Categories: DuskHiker Gear Guide

Why We Love Ultralight (UL) Backpacking

• More comfortable –With your back straight and head up, you can breathe easier and see more of the nature around you.
• Ability to travel faster and farther using less energy – Less weight on your back means more energy for side trails!
• Greater agility – River crossings, downed trees, and washed out sections of the trail become much easier to pass.
• You may find it easier to tackle more challenging route options – A lighter pack is less of a burden than traditional packs on difficult and steep terrain.
• Fewer injuries – With a lightweight pack on, you’ll be less likely to stumble and fall due to exhausted legs. Your joints and muscles will also thank you for taking some of the pressure off of them.
• Less long-term wear and tear on your body – Over time, your body will be much happier with a lightweight pack – especially your back, knees, and feet.
• Packing up is quicker and easier – The less stuff you carry, the less stuff you have to pack back up in the morning.
• Makes room for luxury items or specialized gear – Ultralight backpacking doesn’t have to mean you don’t bring anything fun. Less weight spent on necessary items means more weight allowance for fun things like a backpacking chair, a flask of wine, or even a game to play in camp.
• Makes backpacking accessible to those with physical challenges or limitations – For some, going lighter may be the only way they can tackle longer or more challenging trips.
• Ability to wear lighter footwear – Lightweight footwear is more comfortable and saves a ton of energy. Check out our 5 Reasons to Ditch Your Hiking Boots post to see why we love trail runners so much, and our Best Hiking Shoes for Men / Best Hiking Shoes for Women lists for specific recommendations.

The Downsides Of UL Backpacking

• It’s expensive – UL gear is typically more expensive because it’s higher-tech and made with top-quality materials. We compiled a list of our favorite tips for backpacking on a budget to help get you out there without breaking the bank.
• Durability – Lightweight gear can be less durable because it’s typically made with thinner materials, so you might have to replace it sooner. That said, with a little care we generally find that our UL gear lasts for hundreds, if not thousands of miles.
• Time – It takes more time to gain experience and develop confidence using UL gear.

Base Weight vs. Pack Weight

If you’ve been dabbling in backpacking for some time, you’ve surely heard the words base weight and pack weight thrown around. But what exactly do they mean? We’ll break them down for you.

• Base weight – To calculate gear weight, most ultralight hikers refer to “base weight,” which is the weight of your pack itself and all the items carried in it that don’t fluctuate during your hike. Food, water, fuel, and other products (like toiletries and sunscreen) that will be consumed during your trip are not counted. Most backpackers consider a base weight between 10 and 20 lbs. to be lightweight. Knowing a base weight is most helpful for long-distance hikers who will be regularly replenishing consumables as their trip progresses.
• Pack weight – Pack weight refers to the total of your fully-loaded backpack including food, water, and everything else except the clothing worn. It’s likely that the longer your trip, the heavier your pack will be starting out at the trailhead.

Consumables

Often times, food and water will be some of the heaviest items in your pack. Because of this, it is crucial to be thoughtful about your strategy around these items.

• Water – You’ll need to plan ahead and carry enough water to make it to a reliable water source. Always be a little conservative and take a small amount of extra water. But remember that liquids are among the heaviest items in your pack, so they add substantial strain to your backpack and body. Start out well-hydrated and know how much water you’ll actually need to get to the next source on your map. For more tips on watering up, check out our 20 Tips for Backpacking in the Desert guide.
• Food – Ultralight backpackers need a variety of foods that are easy to prepare, delicious, nutritious, and reasonably “durable” so they won’t spoil or turn to crumbles during the trip. Most backpackers use a combination of dehydrated or freeze-dried meals, and items like packaged snacks, bars, and nuts instead of fresh foods to save weight. Even dried foods are dense though, and hikers usually need about 1-2 lbs. of food per person per full day on the trail to stay satiated. Reduce as much weight as possible by repackaging foods in Ziploc bags before your trip. Your food bag may start out a bit heavy and bulky, but each day it will get lighter and smaller.

Check out our Best Lightweight Backpacking Food guide to get ideas of foods you can take on your next backpacking trip, or learn about how to make your own dehydrated backpacking meals with our 13 Great Backpacking Meal Recipes & Food Dehydration Tips. No time to make anything? We’ll give you the inside scoop on which store-bought freeze-dried meals are the best in our experience.

Getting Started

BUY OR REPLACE HEAVY ITEMS WITH UL ONES

The quickest way to shave serious weight off of your kit is to replace your “Big Three”: your backpack, sleep system and shelter. To be considered ultralight, aim for your biggest items to be no more than 1-3 pounds each.

Choosing lightweight, sturdy, and dependable gear can be pretty pricey, but it’ll be well worth the cost since you’ll have the pleasure of using it for years to come. Here are a few of our favorite UL big three items:

• Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 2400 (1 lb. 14 oz.)
• Sleeping Bag: REI Co-op Magma 15 & 30 (1 lb 12.2 oz. & 1 lb. 3.8 oz.)
• Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest UberLite (Reg.: 8.8 oz., Long: 12 oz.)
• Shelter: ZPacks Duplex & Triplex (1 lb. 3.4 oz & 1 lb. 6.5 oz.)

For more great recommendations for specific gear on these lists, we recommend checking out the full DuskHiker Gear Guide and Top Picks page.

TAKE JUST ENOUGH GEAR TO BE SAFE, COMFORTABLE & CONFIDENT

A big part of traveling light is knowing what NOT to bring. People tend to pack for their fears. Afraid of going hungry? You may bring too much food. Fearful of being cold? You may bring too much clothing or an unnecessarily heavy sleeping bag. Afraid of getting injured? You may bring an unnecessarily beefy first aid kit.

An Ultralight Backpacking Checklist can help keep you on track and determine what’s critical and what’s superfluous. When you’re on the fence with an optional item, ask yourself this: “What would happen if I didn’t have this piece of gear?” Often the answer is, “Eh, I’d be fine.”

KNOW THE ACTUAL WEIGHT OF EACH ITEM

Measuring gear with a digital scale will give you an accurate picture of the weight of your kit. Gear manufacturers tend to understate the weight of their products to make them more attractive, so it’s a good idea to weigh them yourself. Some people like to mark each item’s actual weight with a sharpie or record them in a notebook. The most useful method, in our opinion, is to create a spreadsheet to calculate your pack weight as you add and subtract items and can help you analyze your gear piece-by-piece or as a whole.

LOOK FOR ITEMS THAT CAN SERVE MULTIPLE PURPOSES

For example, replace one of your tent stakes with a snow stake that can be used as a spade to dig cat holes as well as an anchor for your shelter. You just eliminated the need to carry a trowel which only has one use.

A simple bandana can also be used as a washcloth, hanky, pot holder, sunglasses case, and sun shield for your neck if placed under a hat. Using your imagination and ingenuity. Explore the options for each item and see if you can do without some things that only have a single purpose.

USE THE SMALLEST ITEMS THAT WILL MEET YOUR NEEDS

Can you replace your heavy pocket knife with a small, lightweight multitool? You should also consider trimming things down whenever possible since even tiny bits of weight add up. Break off the handle of your toothbrush, trim extra straps from your pack, and remove the cover of that novel you plan to read and break it down into sections you can pack in your resupply boxes. It may not seem like much, but there’s a saying in UL backpacking: ounces equal pounds, and pounds equal pain.

DRESS EFFICIENTLY

As hikers, we expect a lot from our clothing. It has to insulate us from the cold, breathe well, dry quickly, and protect us from the elements. Because of these challenging demands, it’s very common to overpack clothing – which makes backpacks unnecessarily heavy and bulky. It really pays to invest some time and money into dialing in your clothing to create a working system that can be adjusted to meet all your needs in as few garments as possible.

An adequate clothing system for hiking and backpacking is really important for your safety in the backcountry. Streamlining your clothing system to make it simple, comfortable, and lightweight will help you enjoy your outdoor experience more. To get started, check out our Backpacking & Hiking Clothing 101 post where we break down tips for creating the perfect ultralight clothing system. For more specifics on clothing, check out our DuskHiker Gear Guide.

Watch our Ultralight Clothing and Rain Gear video to learn the basics of backpacking clothing, then use our Ultimate Backpacking Checklist to start dialing in your duds.

Are You Convinced?

Sure, backpacking is just walking, but it’s actually really tough work. And be honest with yourself, how often in your day-to-day life do you put 30 pounds on your back and walk up a few hundred flights of stairs? Probably not that often. So training properly before your hike and keeping your pack weight to an absolute minimum is really critical.

When you try on a backpack at home, it’s easy to think, “Oh, this weight isn’t too bad.” But when you get on the trail and hike up a steep incline, it won’t take long to realize that your pack is too heavy, and you’ll really wish you were carrying less of a load.

If you’ve ever been caught in a backcountry downpour, you know how important it is to have high-quality rain gear functioning at its full potential. Being cold and wet in the wilderness is not only extremely uncomfortable, it’s also dangerous.

After a while with your rain gear, you’ll notice that water no longer beads up like it used to and water appears to soak into the fabric. This is called “wetting out,” and it’s a major indicator it’s time to wash and retreat your rain gear.

Luckily, caring for rain gear is a simple task. We put together this quick guide to help you continue to get the most out of your gear when you need it most. And if it is truly time to replace your stuff, check out our guides to the best rain jackets, rain pants, and boots for men and women.

How Rain Gear Works

Rain gear is made of multiple bonded layers – either 2L, 2.5L, or 3L. 2L jackets are made up of an outer face fabric bonded to a waterproof layer. 2.5L models add an extra, thin liner on the inside that provides additional protection for the waterproof layer. 3L bonded layers are similar to 2.5L models but with a more robust construction made up of a thicker, softer, more comfortable inner laminate, the middle waterproof and breathable membrane, and the outer face fabric.

LAMINATE (INNER)

The inner layer provides comfort against your skin and protects the middle membrane from sweat and grime.

WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE MEMBRANE (MIDDLE)

The waterproof and breathable middle layer is composed of microscopic pores which are large enough to allow water vapor (sweat and condensation) to escape, but small enough to prevent any liquid water (rain) from getting in. If we’re being honest, calling rain gear “breathable” is a stretch, but it’s the best technology we currently have.

FACE FABRIC (OUTER)

The outer fabric layer is usually made of polyester or nylon and treated with Durable Water Repellent (DWR). The DWR chemical bond is what causes water to bead up and run off your coat. Every new coat comes with a factory-applied DWR.

WEARING DOWN

Over time, sweat, grime, and solid particles in the air degrade the DWR bond on the outside of your jacket. Eventually the DWR will be rendered totally useless and your jacket will fully “wet out.” Note that this does not mean rain water is getting into your jacket. The main problem with wetting out is that the middle layer of your raincoat can’t breathe. Essentially, the pores of your rain jacket are clogged when it gets wet. When your sweat can’t escape, you end up getting damp from the inside out due to condensation build up.

How Often Should I Wash?

When you realize your rain gear is “wetting out” you need to wash and treat it. By washing your shells with Tech Wash and reapplying DWR, your jacket and pants will be as close to new as possible. The more you use your rain gear, especially in harsh conditions, the more often you’ll need to wash it.

Truth be told, most backpackers and hikers don’t wash their rain gear nearly enough, if ever. This leads to wetting out and hikers may even buy new rain gear because they think their old shells are worn out. But don’t worry, your jacket hasn’t reached the end of its life, it just needs some love. How often you wash your rain gear will vary, but here are some general rules:

• If you wear your rain gear casually, then wash your coat once a month (yep, once a month) or after 20-30 normal uses.
• If you wear your rain gear during high-exertion activities, such as hiking or jogging, it’s good to wash your rain gear after 10-15 uses. Sweat and other contaminants build up much quicker under these circumstances.
• As soon as you notice your rain gear is “wetting out,” give it a full wash.

Wash-In or Spray-On DWR?

There are two ways you can reapply DWR to your rain gear: wash-in DWR such as Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In or a spray-on DWR such as Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On. We use the wash-in treatment for rain shells and pants because it’s easy and effective. If you’re washing a multi-layer garment with insulation, such as a fleece or down-lined rain jacket, use a spray-on treatment.

How to Wash Your Rain Gear

By the time most people get around to washing their rain gear, they’ll not only need to clean their jacket, but also reapply DWR. If your rain gear is still repelling water and is not yet wetting out, you may only need to wash your rain gear with Tech Wash. If this is the case, you can follow steps 1-5 below and then tumble dry on low. For most people, you’ll want want to reapply DWR as part of the full washing cycle outlined below.

Materials

• Technical Wash
• DWR (we use Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In and TX.Direct Spray-On)
• Laundry Machine (use a front loader without an agitator. Go to a laundromat if necessary, especially for thinner garments.)
• Dryer (tumble dry low)

Steps

1. Check the manufacturer’s washing instructions on the tag. Though the instructions are most likely similar to the steps below, make sure you follow the garment’s instructions.
2. Clean any residual laundry detergent from the laundry machine soap dispenser. Standard detergent can be harmful to your rain gear.
3. Pour in the recommended dosage of Tech Wash. Never use powder detergent, bleach or fabric softener, which can damage the membrane of your gear.
4. Zip up your rain shell and make sure there are no objects in the pockets. Then load it into the machine.
5. Wash on the gentle (or delicate) cycle. If it appears that the soap isn’t completely rinsed out after the cycle, you may want to run the rinse cycle again without tech wash. Thoroughly rinsed gear sets you up for success in the next step.
6. Next, you’ll reapply DWR to your jacket. Pour the recommended dosage of your Wash-In DWR into the laundry machine soap dispenser, set the recommended temperature (usually low-warm), and run your rain gear through the gentle cycle. If you’re using Spray-On DWR, see instructions below.
7. When the cycle is complete, air dry or tumble dry on low setting. Just be sure to double check the care instructions on your jacket.
8. Store your rain gear once it’s completely dry. If not, mildew and mold can build up in the creases of your rain gear.

Washing Down/Fleece Insulated Rain Gear

If you have a rain jacket that has down or fleece insulation, the process to wash and reapply DWR is a little different. The first thing you always want to do is read the instruction label on the rain gear, as this should dictate the process.

FLEECE-LINED RAIN GEAR

You’ll need two products for this: Tech Wash and Spray-On DWR. First, wash your rain gear using the Tech Wash. There’s no need to dry garments before applying DWR. Find a flat surface and put down a protective barrier such as cardboard so you don’t harm the work surface. Lay your rain gear flat and close up all zippers. Holding the bottle six inches away, spray the outside fabric, ensuring full and even coverage. Wait two minutes, then dab away any residual product with a damp cloth. Air dry or tumble dry on low, or as garment care instructions allow.

DOWN-LINED RAIN GEAR

You’ll need two products for this: Down Wash and Spray-On DWR or Down Proof (read below). First, wash your gear with the down wash according to the directions. If you need more clarification, check our our article on How to Wash a Down Coat. Next, reapply the DWR. As above, no need to dry gear beforehand. For spray-on DWR, put down a protective barrier such as cardboard on a flat work surface. Lay your rain gear flat and close all the zippers. Holding the bottle six inches away, spray the outside of the garment evenly and thoroughly. Wait two minutes and then dab way any extra coating with a damp cloth. Air dry or tumble dry on low (according to care instructions). Where possible, we recommend tumble drying since down takes a very long time to dry.

DOWN PROOF

For added protection, you also have the option of using Down Proof after your completed wash cycle with Down Wash. Rather than using the spray-on DWR, Down Proof ensures that both the outer shell and the down inside get a reapplication of DWR.

More Information

We hope this guide helps you get your rain gear clean and revitalized. As always, please leave a comment below if you have any recommendations, questions, or suggestions.

The Grand Teton Mountains are home to moose, deer, elk, bighorn sheep, black and grizzly bears, mountain lions, wolves, and many other species. But they also showcase one of the nation’s most scenic hiking routes: the Teton Crest Trail. 

This high route trail traverses ridges offering spectacular wide-angle views of towering granite peaks, glacier-carved canyons, crystalline lakes and wildflower-pocked meadows of penstemon, lupine, paintbrush, monkshood and western coneflower. With mileage varying from 35 to 45 miles, depending on your route, the serpentine trail cuts through the Jedadiah Wilderness Area, two national forests – Bridger Teton and Caribou-Targhee-as well as Grand Teton National Park, rarely dropping below 8,000 feet.

Along the way, you’ll touch at least three ecological zones and circumnavigate a classic glacier with well-defined terminal and lateral moraines, crevasses, and a proglacial lake. For ambitious backpackers, using some creative side trails, the route can be extended to 75 miles.

Quick Facts

Days Needed: 3-5 days

Peak Elevation: 10,695 feet

Elevation Gain/Loss: 8,061’ ascent and 7,576’ descent, (average grade is 8%, max grade at 34%)

Best Travel Time: July through early September

Permits: Required (see below)

Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult

Highlights

• Stunning vistas from the multitude of ridgelines and passes
• Beautiful sunrises and sunsets from most campsites
• Gorgeous high alpine scenery
• Relative solitude, but expect to see a lot of other backpackers
• Challenging side trips (Hunt Mountain, Static Peak, Upper Cascade Canyon)
• Opportunity for moose and bear sightings, if you’re quiet and lucky
• Excellent hiking temperatures

Lowlights

• Competitive permit process
• Susceptible to quickly changing weather
• Seasonal bugs and snow
• Campfires prohibited
• Some years, mostly wet ones, the flies are vicious
• Many streams dry up by late August, making water sources more limited (depending on snowmelt and rainfall earlier in the year)
• A few spots require stream fording (particularly South Fork Teton Creek)
• You’ll hike 31 miles before you gain the highest elevation on the crest trail, but that also means a fast and furious descent to the trail terminus over the last 8 miles
• You may need to carry and know how to use an ice axe and microspikes to traverse several passes until late July
• Parking at trailheads can be challenging. Inquire at the backcountry office for your best options that day.

Best Time to Travel

In general, July through September is the best time to hike the Teton Crest Trail, but in some years you may still be able to safely hike as late as early October. Snowpack is a key factor for trip planning in this area as snow can linger on passes until late in the year. Rain and snow can fall at any time of year here and freezing temperatures are possible as well.

During the summer months temperatures can reach into the 80s during the day and drop down into the 30s at night. As always, be prepared and diligent in monitoring current conditions as weather can change quickly in the mountains. Before heading out, check the National Weather Service for up-to-date conditions. While snow conditions vary from year to year, snow usually melts on trail elevations below 6,700 feet by mid-June. At higher elevations up to 10,000 feet, depending on the year, the snow progressively melts, bearing ground by the third week in July.

To safely traverse Paintbrush, Static Peak and Moose Basin Divides, and Hurricane, Mt. Meek and Fox Creek passes, you may need an ice axe (and the knowhow to use it) as late as August. Microspikes help with traction too on steep snowfields. Always check in with the Grand Teton National Park Service for snow levels and condition of the passes.

Difficulty

• Total Distance: 63 km (39 miles)
• Total Elevation Gain/Loss: 8,061’ ascent and -7,576’ descent, average grade 8%, max 34%.
• Overall Difficulty: Moderate – Difficult

This hike is moderate to difficult due to two significant ascents and descents. As always, difficulty ratings depend on your experience, physical fitness, pack weight, and weather conditions. Although not a technically demanding hike, it requires careful planning around campsites and water resources. Like any backpacking trip, you should plan accordingly, train properly, know your limitations, brush up on your skills, and dial in your gear. Doing so will make for a safe and enjoyable adventure.

Permits

Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips in Grand Teton National Park. To obtain a permit, apply in advance, starting the first (non-holiday) Wednesday in January. Submit your permit request at Recreation.gov where you can view backcountry campsites availability in real-time and apply for reservations.

Groups of one to six people may apply for any of the camping zones along the way, while groups of seven to twelve people must camp in designated group campsites. Zones are marked with a sign on each end and hikers with a valid permit are free to choose where they wish to camp once arriving at the zone.

Permits are $20 (non-refundable) plus $7 per person per night. If you’d rather take a chance on a walk-in permit, your chances are fair. The park service reserves up to one-third of each camping zone (see maps) for advance reservations but the remaining two-thirds are available for walk-in permits on a first-come, first-served basis one day before the start of a backcountry trip.

This is great for those who like to fly by the seat of their pants, but remember, no walk-in permits are available for same day starts and during peak backcountry season (July and August), this trail is very popular. We recommend having a backup plan if you choose the walk-in option.

Trailhead Options

The Teton Crest Trail traverses Grand Teton National Park from Wyoming Highway 22, also called the Teton Pass Highway, to String Lake via Paintbrush Canyon. The trail is accessible from many trailheads, but if you want do the it in full, start at the Phillips Pass Trailhead and end at the Leigh Lake Trailhead on String Lake.

If this is the option you choose, parking is possible at a couple of turnouts halfway up Teton Pass, just west of Wilson. Another very popular option is to begin the trail by taking the Teton Village Aerial Tram to Rendezvous Pass at 10,450 feet, which saves five miles and a 2,500-foot ascent. Other popular options for accessing the Teton Crest Trail include beginning at the Granite Canyon, Coal Creek, or Moose Creek trailheads.

Getting to Trailheads

In order to complete the Teton Crest Trail you’ll need to find a shuttle service, drive two cars and shuttle yourself, or hitchhike (which requires the least advance planning but can be an unreliable option and a personal preference based on your comfort level).

Campsites

There are 11 campsites along the Teton Crest Trail. Once you have your permit and you’re on the trail, all individual sites are first-come, first-serve within each zone for parties of six or fewer people. For more information on backcountry campsites, visit the NPS site. Group campsites may only be used by permit-designated groups (more than six people) specifically assigned to them, and marked with signage. Below are the campsites:

• Cascade Canyon, North Fork
• Cascade Canyon, South Fork
• Death Canyon
• Garnet Canyon
• Granite & Open Canyon
• Holly Lake
• Lower Paintbrush
• Marion Lake
• Phelps Lake
• Upper Paintbrush
• Surprise Lake

Possible Itineraries

Most people complete the Teton Crest Trail in 4-6 days. Below are a few sample itineraries. For more information on mileage between campsites, please refer to the Teton National Park website.

Three Night Option

• Starting Trailhead: Tram Trail
• Camp 1 – Death Canyon Shelf (pick your own campsite)
• Camp 2 – South Fork (designated campsites)
• Camp 3 – Holly Lake

Four Night Option

• Starting Trailhead: Granite Canyon
• Camp 1 – Granite Canyon/Upper Granite
• Camp 2 – Fox Creek
• Camp 3 – Alaska Basin
• Camp 4 – Holly Lake

Five Night Option

This trip itinerary allows for extra time to explore the area and take side trips to Static Peak and The Wall.

• Starting Trailhead: Phillips
• Camp 1 – Moose Lake (not included in the reservation system)
• Camp 2 – Death Canyon Shelf (pick your own campsite)
• Camp 3 – Alaska Basin
• Camp 4 – South Fork Cascade Canyon Zone
• Camp 5 – Holly Lake

Maps & Guidebooks

The Grand Teton Crest Trail follows a well-defined and established route.  During peak season when the trail is well-traveled the risk of getting lost is pretty low. Still, you should always carry a map since it provides additional useful information, as well as routes to side trips easily accessed off the main trail.

• Hiking Grand Teton National Park by Bill Schneider (Falcon Press) lists 35 trails in the Teton’s, but more critically, provides solid information on the Teton Crest Trail. You’ll find detailed a map of the trail and valuable information about elevations and key landmarks.
• National Geographic Grand Teton National Park Trail Map offers excellent detail of the entire park, but also of the Teton Crest Trail.
• NPS.gov is an excellent resource. The reservation system is straightforward and easy to use and the site has an interactive map of the area.
• Teton Crest Trail by Necas Pereira is an exhaustive self-published guide to the Teton Crest Trail. It’s hard to find and expensive but it’s a prize if you can find it and have the budget.

Water

Water is plentiful along this trail and easily accessible from small streams until late August when some sources begin to dry up. Water is always available from the lakes. Typically, you’ll walk two hours between water sources. At high elevations, you’ll want to drink as much water as you can to stay hydrated and avoid feeling the elevation much more acutely.

Carry enough water to get from one source to the next and use a lightweight water purification system. By September when water levels are lower, you’ll want a pre-filter (e.g. a bandana or pantyhose) for getting debris out of your water before treating it.

Bears & Food Storage

Teton National Park, including the Teton Crest Trail, is home to a healthy grizzly and black bear population. You’ll want to make sure each member in your party has bear spray stored in an easily accessible spot like your backpack strap. We also recommend practicing how to use it (with safety cap on) so you will be better-prepared in the unlikely event that you’d need to use it.

Just remember, you cannot bring bear spray on an airplane. Anyone camping below 10,000 feet will need to carry an approved bear canister and store all food, garbage and toiletries – any item with an odor that may attract bears – inside them.

You can borrow a canisters at any permit-issuing stations for free with a backcountry permit. For a list of all approved portable bear resistant food canisters please visit the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee website. Food storage stations (a large bear box for your small bear can) are available at some campsite sites.

All of these precautions are both for your safety as well as that of the bear. Many animals are euthanized each year because of avoidable interactions with improperly stored food.

Bugs

The big annoyance in the Tetons, especially near meadows, basins and waterways, are big green flies. People not otherwise bothered by insect bites will often welt up from this insect’s painful bite.

Mosquitoes are seasonally present along the lower elevation sections and near lakes near the Teton Crest Trail. September usually offers a reprieve from bugs after temperatures dip consistently below freezing. Use a combination of permethrin on your clothing and a small amount of DEET for full protection.

Gear List

Make sure to check out our Ultimate Backpacking Checklist, so you don’t forget something important.

Below you’ll find our current favorite backpacking gear. If you want to see additional options, our curated gear guides are the result of many years of extensive research and hands-on testing by our team of outdoor experts.

BACKPACK

• Best Backpacking Pack Overall: Gregory Paragon 58 – Men’s / Gregory Maven 58 – Women’s
• Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound 40
• More: Check out our best backpacking backpacks guide for ultralight and trekking options

TENT

• Best Backpacking Tent Overall: Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2
• Best Ultralight Tent: Zpacks Duplex
• Best Budget Tent: REI Half Dome 2
• Best Tent Stakes Overall: All One Tech Aluminum Stakes
• More: Check out our best backpacking tents guide for more options

SLEEPING BAG/QUILT

• Best Sleeping Bag Overall: Men’s Feathered Friends Swallow YF 20 / Women’s Feathered Friends Egret YF 20
• Best Quilt Overall: Enlightened Equipment Revelation 20
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping bags guide and best backpacking quilts guide for more options

SLEEPING PAD

• Best Sleeping Pad Overall: NEMO Tensor All-Season
• Best Foam Sleeping Pad: NEMO Switchback
• More: Check out our best backpacking sleeping pads guide for ultralight and trekking options

CAMP KITCHEN

• Best Backpacking Stove Overall: MSR PocketRocket 2
• Best Backpacking Cookware Overall: TOAKS Titanium 750ml
• Best Backpacking Coffee Overall: Starbucks VIA
• More: Check out our best backpacking stoves guide and best backpacking cookware guide for ultralight and large group options

WATER & FILTRATION

• Best Water Filter Overall: Sawyer Squeeze
• Best Hydration Bladder Overall: Gregory 3D Hydro
• Best Backpacking Water Bottles: Smartwater Bottles
• More: Check out our best backpacking water filters guide and best backpacking water bottles guide for ultralight and large group options

CLOTHING

• Best Hiking Pants Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi / Women’s The North Face Aphrodite 2.0
• Best Hiking Shorts Overall: Men’s Patagonia Quandary / Women’s Outdoor Research Ferrosi
• Best Women’s Hiking Leggings: Fjallraven Abisko Trekking Tights HD
• Best Rain Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Rain Pants: Men’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L / Women’s Patagonia Torrentshell 3L
• Best Down Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie / Women’s Patagonia Down Sweater Hoodie
• Best Fleece Jacket Overall: Men’s Patagonia Better Sweater / Women’s Patagonia Better Sweater
• Best Sunshirt Overall: Men’s Outdoor Research Echo / Women’s Outdoor Research Echo
• Best Socks Overall: Men’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew / Women’s Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew
• Beste Ultralight Liner Glove: Patagonia Capilene Midweight Liner
• More: Check out our best backpacking apparel lists for more options

FOOTWEAR & TRACTION

• Best Hiking Shoes Overall: Men’s HOKA Speedgoat 6 / Women’s HOKA Speedgoat 6
• Best Hiking Boots Overall: Men’s Salomon X Ultra 5 GTX / Women’s Lowa Renegade Evo GTX
• Best Hiking Sandals Overall: Men’s Chaco Z/1 Classic / Women’s Chaco Z/1 Classic
• Best Camp Shoes Overall: Crocs Classic Clogs
• Best Traction Device for Hiking Overall: Kahtoola MICROspikes
• More: Check out our best backpacking footwear lists for more options

NAVIGATION

• Best GPS Watch Overall: Garmin Instinct 2 Solar
• Best Personal Locator Beacon (PLB): Garmin inReach Mini 2
• More: Check out our article How to Use Your Phone as a GPS Device for Backpacking & Hiking to learn more

FOOD

• Best Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Meals
• Best Vegan and Vegetarian Backpacking Meals
• Best Energy Bars
• Best Backpacking Meal Recipes

FIRST-AID & TOOLS

• Best First-Aid Kit Overall: Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight .7
• Best Pocket Knife Overall: Kershaw Leek
• Best Multitool Overall: Leatherman Wave+
• Best Headlamp Overall: Black Diamond Spot 400-R
• Best Power Bank Overall: Nitecore NB 10000 Gen 3
• More: Check out our best first-aid kit guide, best pocket knife guide, best multitool guide, best backpacking headlamps guide, and best power banks guide for more options

MISCELLANEOUS

• Best Trekking Poles Overall: Black Diamond Pursuit
• Best Backpacking Chair Overall: REI Flexlite Air
• Best Backpacking Stuff Sack Overall: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Drawstring
• More: Check out our best trekking poles guide, best backpacking chairs guide, and best stuff sacks guide for more options